In classical Indian tradition, a ‘Morning Raga’ is a specific set of notes played at dawn to evoke the awakening of the soul and the clarity of the rising sun. It requires a precise, meditative discipline to reach that state of “vital calm” – a feat Grace Wales Bonner has managed to translate into silk and wool for Autumn/Winter 2026.
After being crowned British Menswear Designer of the Year twice and stepping into her new role as artistic director at Hermès, we’ve grown accustomed to her revolutionising the masculine wardrobe. Yet, on the shores of India, ahead of her much-anticipated debut for the French Maison next year, she has found a frequency that feels entirely new.
Shot by Malick Bodian, the collection is a symphony of spiritual modernism, drawing heavily from the legendary Indian architect Balkrishna Doshi. Wales Bonner examines Doshi’s pursuit of harmony, treating garments like the “microcosms of paradise” he once described.

The wardrobe itself acts as a bridge between the practical and the purely sensual, where archetypal uniform shapes are romanticised with a poetic hand. Heritage polos are reanimated by ceremonial satin sashes, while silk shirts in Atlantic blue and ivory balance colour-blocking with a precision that feels almost mathematical.
The auditory soul of the collection is entrenched in the ‘Jazz hybrids’ of Indian tradition, with the room filled by the resonance of John Coltrane’s ‘Meditations.’ This cross-cultural dialogue is echoed in the fabric choices: seasonal Madras checks and Bengal-stripe shirting are subverted by a crinkled cotton texture, while structured Italian wool topcoats feature a minimalist grid pattern. For the women, a studded top and skirt set is joined by a signature wrap tuxedo with a sculptural hem line and satin lapel.
The details here span continents and centuries. Architectural brooches, carved from Panga Panga wood and set with semi-precious stones, were handcrafted in Botswana by Beullah Serema and Peter Mabeo. The collaborations are equally essential, featuring tonal merino knits by John Smedley and an indigo linen tuxedo from the Savile Row icons at Anderson and Sheppard that strips the weight from formalwear entirely.
For the footwear, the Studio Moccasin is the new mainline silhouette issued in a punchy zebra-print pony hair. It provides a rhythmic exclamation point to a collection otherwise defined by peace and tranquility.
Discover the collection here.
photography. courtesy of Malick Bodian
words. Gennaro Costanzo
























































































































































































































