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playing cards | emporio armani aw25

Blurring the lines between masculine and feminine dressing was the starting point for Emporio Armani’s Women’s Autumn/Winter 2025/26 collection. Even from the first look – a grey pinstripe three-piece suit with asymmetrical button closures on the vest, a brown button-up paired underneath, and a black leather beret to top it off – this melange was apparent. As the muted colour palette drew from sand and light grey into navy and midnight black, masculine-coded elements – think crisp white collars and cuffs worn as jewellery, black Oxfords paired with oversized suits, and ties worn with jackets and fitted shirting – merged with a withstanding atmosphere of femininity. Fitted jackets with bow clasps, maxi dresses cinched at the waist, strapless fitted tops with colourful ribbon-esque prints were welcomed in between. 

Emporio Armani has long given designer Giorgio Armani space to explore, embracing playful designs that embody youthfulness whilst remaining sophisticated. This season, that light-heartedness appeared as a recurring playing cards motif found printed on semi-sheer frilly blouses, handkerchiefs and neckerchiefs, midi skirts, pleated dresses, and bubble mini-skirts. Not to mention the long wool funnel neck jacket – with hearts, diamonds, clubs, and spades down the centre and kings, queens, and jacks down the sides and sleeves – and the cropped bomber jacket with Emporio Armani branded embroidered playing cards all over. It also came across more subtly with hearts as tops and pockets, playing cards tucked into single-breasted blazer chest pockets, and spades woven into structured skirts and jackets. 

Other prints – like leopard and plaid found on double-breasted coats, pencil skirts, bomber jackets, and jumpers – appeared less as patterns and more as neutrals, whilst pops of vibrant red, blue, pink, and green contrasted wonderfully. 

The black monochrome closing look, consisting of a sequin embroidered semi sheer slip dress with a belted crinoline-inspired skirt over the top and velvet gloves, reflected Armani’s flare for fun within the collection. While it felt more feminine than the majority of the looks (safe from the combat boots), it exuded the same carefree nature, proving that while Emporio Armani is timeless and elegant, it’s also made for bold and unique characters.

Discover the collection here

photography. Emporio Armani
words. Amber Louise