Louis Vuitton’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection is a masterclass in tension between the past and future, between softness and power. Set against a breathtaking labyrinth of stacked Louis Vuitton trunks at the Louvre Palace in Paris, the runway show felt like a celebration of both the brand’s storied history and a leap into uncharted sartorial territory. As models weaved through the iconic trunks, it was clear that this season, Nicolas Ghesquière wasn’t just presenting clothes — he was presenting a story.
At the heart of this collection is the exploration of “soft power,” a concept that, at first glance, seems like an oxymoron. How can something soft be powerful? Ghesquière answers with a seamless blend of contrasts. Billowing trench coats, regal blousons with voluminous sleeves, and blouse jackets carried an almost historical weight, yet their tailoring was undeniably modern. The structured elements of each look were softened by fluid fabrics grounded only by the long, bejewelled sets of layered necklaces. It’s the kind of collection that keeps you on your toes — each piece shifting between opposing forces, never settling, always in motion.
This push-and-pull was further enhanced by the visual collaboration with French conceptual artist Laurent Grasso, whose Renaissance-inspired artwork adorned several garments. These pieces added a layer of art history to the collection, making it feel as though fashion, time, and art were all colliding on the runway. The designs weren’t just meant to be worn; they were meant to be admired, like wearable masterpieces.
The accessories showcased a mix of familiar favourites, like Vuitton’s iconic monogram canvas and the Petite Malle in fresh colours, alongside new arrivals such as the fan-shaped handbags.
The soundtrack, featuring Jamie xx’s In Waves, created a hypnotic rhythm that mirrored the fluidity of the designs. The whole show felt like a delicate balancing act, where razor-sharp tailoring met ethereal fabrics, and historical references danced with futuristic concepts.
Discover the collection at LouisVuitton.com
photography. Giovanni Giannoni
words. Gennaro Costanzo
