fashion’s reflection | WHITE milano ss24 and the art of reinvention

In the world of fashion, trends come and go, but their deeper significance often extends beyond the runways. This year, WHITE Milano, Italy’s leading clothing and lifestyle show, embraces the theme “Sign of the Times,” exploring how fashion not only adapts to but also mirrors the shifting tides of culture, technology, and society. More than just a showcase of cutting-edge collections, WHITE Milano 2024 delves into the heart of what defines our era—where sustainability, digital innovation, and social consciousness are not just trends, but reflections of modern society. By positioning fashion as a lens through which we interpret the present moment, WHITE Milano offers attendees an opportunity to explore how clothing speaks to the challenges and triumphs of the times we live in.

This season marks another great edition for showcasing creativity across the globe, with the ‘Secret Rooms’ forming the center of the fair and highlighting a variety of talents, each with a different message and aesthetic. YID’PHROGMA offers participants the chance to delve into the core of Tibetan traditional garments with a significant blend of raw natural materials intertwined with classic embroidery that distinguishes each piece. It reflects the spiritual essence of the Tibetan highlands, infused with the heritage of shepherd artisans. The brand’s aesthetic captures a sense of timeless mysticism with a soulful connection between the wearer and ancient craftsmanship. At WHITE Milano, YID’PHROGMA stands out for its ability to blend this cultural depth with contemporary design, creating garments that are not only stylish but also meaningful.

PROTOTYPE: AM brings a daring, futuristic edge to outerwear, transforming practical garments into avant-garde statements and playing with the logo design of PayPal this season, focusing more on 3D-printed fabrics and offering a new era of digital connection within the fashion industry. Rooted in Berlin, the brand experiments with bold silhouettes, clean unexpected layers, and voluminous forms.

The debut of this year’s I’M TALENT SHOWROOM offers a fresh generation of talents able to engage with real-time buyers. In collaboration with Istituto Marangoni, WHITE wants these young entrepreneurs to connect their brands with the public and fashion lovers, spreading the name and brand visibility that young designers need in today’s competitive industry.

Part of the I’M TALENT SHOWROOM, PRONOUNCE is redefining the language of menswear by blending the bold with the traditional. Co-founders Yushan Li and Jun Zhou infuse their collections with Eastern heritage and Western innovation. Each piece carries an avant-garde energy, characterized by flowing lines and striking silhouettes that feel both rooted in cultural tradition and ahead of their time. At fashion showcases worldwide, PRONOUNCE captivates with its interesting pattern play of knitwear, rope details attached to its garments, and incredible stitchwork on its finishes.

In contrast to PRONOUNCE, participant MARCOVINCI offers a completely different take on modernity with classic silhouettes that trace back to couture traditions, celebrating the aesthetic of the female body in his own way. Offering a signature handmade mix between couture and prêt-à-porter, MARCOVINCI wants to be a disrupter but also focuses on functionality in its designs within a mid-high range. His muse: Charlize Theron, her essence of female elegance in his eyes. No street couture, but the traditional references of purity and sensuality within couture.

The September 2024 edition of WHITE Milano has drawn to a close, leaving behind its trace of creativity and style, with buyers and visitors able to engage with an impressive collective of more than 300 brands. Over four dynamic days, this event, perfectly timed with Milan Fashion Week, unveiled the Spring/Summer 2025 collections, each one a testament to Italy’s storied legacy in fashion, sending a message to the rest of the world about the creative ways to take a bigger part in this fast-paced industry. From the opulent craftsmanship of Renaissance artisans to the revolutionary designs of the 20th century, Italy has long been the epicentre of creative excellence. WHITE embodies this country’s rich heritage, championing emerging talents through a carefully curated scouting program that highlights innovative labels while celebrating the unique identities of each brand.

In a moment of industry uncertainty, WHITE stands as a beacon, guiding buyers through the evolving landscape with collections that honor both tradition and modernity. This season attracted a diverse gathering from over 100 countries, including stalwarts from celebrated Italian boutiques like Antonia and Rinascente, alongside global luminaries like Le Bon Marché and Galeries Lafayette. The displayed brands of WHITE create a narrative of the future, woven together with history and bold new visions, inviting all to partake in Italy’s ongoing legacy of style.

Keep an eye open to next year’s edition of WHITE at whiteshow.com and instagram.com/whiteshowofficial.

words. Dave Lantinga

 

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