Cesare Ripa’s Iconologia was intertwined through the Etro Men’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Etroallegories, consisting of casual suiting, Mediterranean-esque prints, and summer knits. Designer and creative director Marco De Vincenzo discovered a copy of the book—composed of virtues, vices, passions, arts, and sciences represented by allegories—in his hometown and began to connect it to contemporary mediums. Knowing that the themes within the book, although quite dated, were still relevant today, De Vincenzo took it upon himself to breathe new life into Iconologia through fashion.
The collection, which debuted on Sunday at Milan Fashion Week, featured a subdued colour scheme of soft grey, salmon pink, and sage green, complemented by Mediterranean-inspired prints. Subtly on the collar and hem of bomber jackets and (much) more noticeably covering floor-length jackets and silky button-up shirts, the patterns closely resembled painted tiles. Among these prints is where allegorical images of Augurio Buono, Bellezza, Eternità, Lussuria, and Tenacità revealed themselves.
The prints were expertly partnered with boxy and oversized silhouettes that felt lightweight and casual, but put-together. Roomy blazers, waistcoats, and wide-leg trousers in black, navy, and grey were paired with printed shirts, while suits covered in stripes and diamonds were coupled with knitted tanks. Free-flowing trench coats, three-quarter-length trousers, and knitted pullovers added additional silhouettes to the collection.
Complementing almost every outfit was a beautifully crafted bag. Whether it be a printed crossbody, studded mini, or capacious shoulder bag, De Vincenzo found a way to make them shine against the grandeur of the clothing. Equally competing for the spotlight were platform wallabees and square-toed doll shoes.
Nonetheless, the stars of the show were undoubtedly the sunglasses. Debuting their first two styles of sunglasses in partnership with Safilo during the show, Etro wowed spectators with oversized frames in deep burgundy and black. Sat on geometric temples with the signature Etro pegasus emblem in metal, the shades are the perfect amalgamation of the brand’s style and values. The Spring/Summer 2024 Eyewear collection is set to be launched in January 2024, with the first drop of selected styles entering Etro boutiques in November 2023.
While Iconologia and fashion seem to have nothing in common, De Vincenzo makes connections between choosing an outfit and allegories, demonstrating that dressing yourself helps image-making and communication. With that being said, he encourages viewers to explore past and present allegories, all through a stellar collection that will no doubt be remembered.
images. Etro
words. Amber Louise
