Black tie is synonymous with sleek, formal, and masculine power. With Valentino‘s latest campaign, the iconic label subverts that meaning entirely. Aptly titled “Black Tie,” Valentino’s recent advertising campaign showcases black tie in a new way — one that pushes the boundaries and blurs the line between gender binaries and embraces inclusivity. Fronting the campaign is powerhouse model Kaia Gerber who, with her courageous and fiery personality, sees herself playing to both elegance and power as depicted in the new imagery.
The campaign is captured by renowned photographer Steven Meisel, at the Oheka Castle in New York with Valentino’s Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli at the helm of ‘breaking’ the typical norms that define ‘black tie.’ With this reimagining of black tie, Pierpaolo Piccioli breathes a new life into day and evening wear, succinctly capturing the essence of punk spirit while still honouring formal traditions and silhouettes.
Where some depictions of black tie can feel stuffy and lacking personality, the minds of Meisel and Piccioli show the beauty of deconstructing the traditional standards of what society knows as black tie. In turn, the campaign depicts Gerber at her greatest — bold, beautiful, and ready to rebel.
jacket. Zadig & Voltaire
t-shirt. H&M
skirt. Stylist’s Own
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jacket. Zadig & Voltaire
t-shirt. H&M
skirt. Stylist’s Own
boots. Dr. Martens
jacket. Zadig & Voltaire
t-shirt. H&M
skirt. Stylist’s Own
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jacket. Zadig & Voltaire
t-shirt. H&M
skirt. Stylist’s Own
boots. Dr. Martens
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Slip away to the seaside in Abruzzo, Italy, in this Schön! editorial photographed and art directed by Mattia DB who captures model Nikolaenko Aleksei in looks by Dr. Martens, Zadig & Voltaire, Loom Fabric and others styled by Diana Eugeni.
jacket. Zadig & Voltaire
t-shirt. H&M
skirt. Stylist’s Own
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jacket. Zadig & Voltaire
t-shirt. H&M
skirt. Stylist’s Own
jacket. Zadig & Voltaire
t-shirt. H&M
skirt. Stylist’s Own
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jacket. Zadig & Voltaire
t-shirt. H&M
skirt. Stylist’s Own
Credits
poncho. Loom Fabric
poncho. Loom Fabric
Credits
poncho. Loom Fabric
boots. Dr. Martens
poncho. Loom Fabric
boots. Dr. Martens
Credits
poncho. Loom Fabric
poncho. Loom Fabric
Credits
fur jacket. Vuscichè
hat. NEW ERA
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fur jacket. Vuscichè
trousers. Maison Margiela
hat. NEW ERA
fur jacket. Vuscichè
hat. NEW ERA
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fur jacket. Vuscichè
trousers. Maison Margiela
hat. NEW ERA
Credits
fur jacket. Vuscichè
trousers. Maison Margiela
boots. Dr. Martens
opposite
full look. Maison Margiela
fur jacket. Vuscichè
trousers. Maison Margiela
boots. Dr. Martens
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full look. Maison Margiela
Credits
gilet. CLOSED
t-shirt. Vuscichè
trousers. Ann Demeulemeester
boots. Dr. Martens
gilet. CLOSED
t-shirt. Vuscichè
trousers. Ann Demeulemeester
boots. Dr. Martens
Credits
gilet. CLOSED
t-shirt. Vuscichè
trousers. Ann Demeulemeester
boots. Dr. Martens
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trousers. Maison Margiela
gilet. CLOSED
t-shirt. Vuscichè
trousers. Ann Demeulemeester
boots. Dr. Martens
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trousers. Maison Margiela
full look. (personal collection)
Assume Me, Define Me by Qian Wu
full look. (personal collection)
Assume Me, Define Me by Qian Wu
Credits
Stepping out of the classroom and into the fast-paced world of fashion is a transition filled with challenges, discoveries, and creative evolution. Since graduating in 2021, Qian Wu‘s journey as a designer has taken them across a spectrum of brands — each shaping their perspective and approach to fashion in unexpected ways. From the bold, sculptural world of Melitta Baumeister to the refined ready-to-wear elegance of 3.1 Phillip Lim, the performance-driven precision of Ten Thousand, and now, crafting modern menswear at Express, they’ve explored the full range of artistry, functionality, and commercial design. Each experience has expanded their understanding of what it means to design — not just for aesthetics but for real people, real function, and real impact.
Schön! chats with Wu about their collection, Movement Creates, their design work, and more.
full look. (personal collection)
Assume Me, Define Me by Qian Wu
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full look. (personal collection)
Assume Me, Define Me by Qian Wu
full look. (personal collection)
Assume Me, Define Me by Qian Wu
opposite
full look. (personal collection)
Assume Me, Define Me by Qian Wu
Credits
full look. Ten Thousand
full look. Ten Thousand
Credits
full look. Melitta Baumeister
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full look. Melitta Baumeister
full look. Melitta Baumeister
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full look. Melitta Baumeister
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How do you think the transition from being a fashion design student to a professional designer has shaped your perspective on creativity and functionality in fashion?
Transitioning from student to professional designer taught me the importance of balancing creativity with practicality. As a student, the focus was on pure artistic expression and pushing boundaries without limitations. In the industry, I’ve learned that functionality is equally vital—every piece must resonate with a customer’s lifestyle while maintaining a strong creative vision. This dual perspective has helped me design pieces that are not only innovative but also purposeful.
How has your personal design aesthetic changed since graduating in 2021?
Since graduating, my design aesthetic has become more refined and versatile. While my academic work leaned heavily toward experimental and avant-garde styles, my industry experience has taught me the beauty of simplicity and function. My aesthetic now marries minimalism with thoughtful details, focusing on creating timeless pieces that are both striking and wearable.
full look. Ten Thousand
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full look. Ten Thousand
full look. Ten Thousand
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full look. Ten Thousand
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full look. Ten Thousand
full look. Ten Thousand
Credits
Working for diverse brands like Melitta Baumeister, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Ten Thousand, and Express, how has your design process evolved when addressing such varied customer demographics and brand aesthetics?
Adapting to each brand’s unique identity has significantly expanded my design process. At Melitta Baumeister, approached designs conceptually, focusing on storytelling and bold experimentation. At Ten Thousand and Express, the emphasis shifted to performance and market trends. This required me to think more about the customer’s practical needs and lifestyles. Now, my process is highly adaptable, starting with deep research into the brand’s DNA and customer base, followed by integrating my personal creative lens.
How do you balance the artistic and experimental aspects of fashion (e.g., at Melitta Baumeister) with the functional and market-driven needs at Express or Ten Thousand?
Balancing these aspects comes down to innovation within constraints. At Melitta Baumeister, I had the freedom to push boundaries with structure and texture. In contrast, brands like Ten Thousand required designs to meet specific functional goals. To bridge the two, I focus on creating pieces that are artistic in their detailing and aesthetic but grounded in functionality and wearability.
full look. Melitta Baumeister
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full look. Melitta Baumeister
full look. Melitta Baumeister
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full look. Melitta Baumeister
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full look. Ten Thousand
full look. Ten Thousand
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full look. Ten Thousand
full look. Ten Thousand
Credits
full look. 3.1 Phillip Lim
full look. 3.1 Phillip Lim
Credits
How have technical skills—such as fabric development, construction techniques, or fit analysis—been essential to your success in these different roles and with your own personal design archive?
Technical skills have been crucial to my success. Whether it’s sourcing innovative fabrics, refining fits through pattern adjustments, or mastering construction techniques, these skills have allowed me to execute my ideas with precision. At Ten Thousand, fit analysis was essential for performance apparel, while at 3.1 Phillip Lim, fabric development elevated the artistry of each piece. These skills ensure my designs are not only visually compelling but also high-quality and functional.
How do you maintain a brand’s identity while still infusing your personal design aesthetic into the work?
Maintaining a brand’s identity requires a deep understanding of its core values and target audience. I start by fully immersing myself in the brand’s ethos and aesthetics, ensuring my designs align with its vision. At the same time, I look for subtle ways to integrate my own aesthetic—whether through a unique use of colour, texture, or innovative details—so my personal touch enhances, rather than overshadows, the brand.
full look. (personal collection)
Assume Me, Define Me by Qian Wu
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full look. (personal collection)
Assume Me, Define Me by Qian Wu
full look. (personal collection)
Assume Me, Define Me by Qian Wu
opposite
full look. (personal collection)
Assume Me, Define Me by Qian Wu
Credits
full look. (personal collection)
Assume Me, Define Me by Qian Wu
opposite
full look. (personal collection
full look. (personal collection)
Assume Me, Define Me by Qian Wu
opposite
full look. (personal collection
Credits
full look. (personal collection)
Assume Me, Define Me by Qian Wu
full look. (personal collection)
Assume Me, Define Me by Qian Wu
Credits
As someone with experience across such a wide range of fashion sectors, where do you see your career heading next? What is your ultimate goal as a designer?
I see my career evolving toward creating a brand or collaborative platform that bridges experimental artistry with functional innovation. My ultimate goal is to design pieces that inspire and empower people while championing sustainability and craftsmanship. I want to leave a legacy of thoughtful design that balances creativity with real-world relevance.
What advice would you give to someone transitioning from an artsy, experimental brand to a more commercial or functional one?
Embrace the change as an opportunity to grow. Understand the new brand’s audience and purpose while finding ways to bring a fresh perspective to the table. Focus on versatility—leveraging your creative background to think innovatively within commercial constraints. Most importantly, remain open to collaboration and see it as a chance to learn and expand your skill set.
How has working at these diverse brands inspired your own designs?
Each brand has offered a unique perspective that has deeply influenced my work. Melitta Baumeister taught me the value of bold experimentation, while Ten Thousand emphasized the importance of functionality and performance. These experiences have inspired me to create designs that are both innovative and practical, with a strong narrative that connects with the wearer on a deeper level.
Where do you see the future of fashion heading in terms of innovation, functionality, and creative freedom?
The future of fashion lies in the intersection of sustainability, technology, and individuality. Innovation in materials, such as bio-fabrication and smart textiles, will redefine functionality. Creative freedom will thrive through digital platforms and AI, allowing designers to push boundaries in ways we’ve never seen before. Ultimately, I believe fashion will move toward more personalized and meaningful design, where pieces are not just items of clothing but reflections of a more thoughtful and inclusive industry.
full look. (personal collection) Transgression by Qian Wu
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full look. (personal collection) Transgression by Qian Wu
full look. (personal collection) Transgression by Qian Wu
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full look. (personal collection) Transgression by Qian Wu
Credits
full look. (personal collection) Transgression by Qian Wu
full look. (personal collection) Transgression by Qian Wu
A 9-to-5 doesn’t look so bad in this Schön! editorial with photography by Rebecka Slatter and fashion by Roz Donoghue who dresses Meng in looks by Shushu Tong, Tod’s, Sandro and others, featuring hair and make up by artist Ayra.