image. Dolce & Gabbana
The runways at Milan Fashion Week (MFW) Men’s Spring/Summer 2024 were brimming with classic suiting and lasting elegance. Brands that presented from June 16 to 20 all celebrated their heritage, looking back at their past and revitalising it. Contemporary silhouettes and colours, whilst fresh, felt distinctly ageless, highlighting the importance of investment pieces. Collections from Neil Barrett, Jordanluca, Andersson Bell, Dolce & Gabbana, and Billionaire stood out with their expert tailoring, attention to detail, and emphasis on luxury.
Looking back at ‘90s fashion, Neil Barrett reinterprets the past styles in their latest menswear collection. Inspired by the masculine minimalism of the 1990s, the brand showed new fabrics in boxy silhouettes inspired by workwear and uniforms. Casual tailoring is made contemporary with timeless patterns in acid green, lemon yellow, and pale blue that pop against grey and hazelnut. The collection as a whole reflects the evolution of Neil Barrett whilst still considering details and craftsmanship.
Jordanluca showed their first complete womenswear collection beside their menswear this MFW. The popular phrase “the lipstick index” coined by cosmetics magnate Leonard Lauder—meaning that lipstick sales are dependent on the health of the economy—is the starting point for the new collection and is represented through pops of red. Signifying power, blood, life, and death, the colour finds itself woven through intricate draping, high necklines, and lace. For both collections, casual suiting is a huge inspiration, challenging gender norms and building an androgynous image. The brand’s hunched “bulldog” shape carried from FW23 into trenches and blazers alongside kilt-inspired skirts and blazers this season.
Seoul-based label Andersson Bell celebrated its 10th anniversary and MFW debut, showing a collection of military and racing-inspired garments. Designer and creative director Dohun Kim was influenced by his teenage years spent in the city’s vintage district, juxtaposing contrasting fabrics and designs he had loved as a teen. Fabrics fray into one another, swatches of fabric make their way onto jackets, and torn denim is sewn into skirts and jackets. The brand introduced a new unisex sneaker, walking down the runway with a padded sole and combination of calfskin leather, suede, and nylon upper. The standout, however, was the leather Veso bag, closely resembling a vase and holding flowers.
Elegance took over Dolce & Gabbana’s SS24 menswear collection, titled ‘Stile’. As a tribute to their iconic designs from the past, the brand reworked them with contemporary styles in mind. Signature tank tops, Coppola hats, and rosaries returned to the runway, as well as their elegant suits. T-shirts with statuesque draping, polka dots, and embroidered flowers alongside sheer and ruched fabrics take on a neutral colour palette. Floral lace and draped fabrics soften the structured blazers and waistcoats. Even archival pieces made an appearance, bearing a label with the year they were first presented.
Drawing inspiration from the landscapes of North Africa, designer Philipp Plein of Billionaire showed the brand’s latest menswear collection fused with the spirit of travel. The desert, Mediterranean coast, and the Atlas Mountains came to life through an earth colour palette consisting of brown, green, navy, and mustard. Tailored suits, leather jackets, and straight-cut trousers all strutted down the runway on the terrace of the Four Seasons Hotel in Milan. Panama hats accompanied some of the looks, solidifying the collection’s theme of travel.
MFW was home to an array of collections that encompassed elegance, heritage, and timelessness, whilst speaking to the core values of each brand.
images. Neil Barrett, Jordanluca, Andersson Bell, Dolce & Gabbana, + Billionaire
words. Amber Louise
