Backstage at Calcaterra. Photo by Giulia Mantovani.
There’s really no better way to end Milan Fashion Week than with a look back on some of the most Schön! moments from the season.
We’ll kick things off with the first show we attended: Calcaterra. And, before we get into more details, subjectively, dare I to say I was impressed. Maxi and mini volumes emphasised new silhouettes that coexisted beautifully with simplicity and linearity. With an androgynous touch, the collection felt poetic. On the catwalk, we followed a journey that went from the purest whites to a red so intense red “only the warmth of the soul can create,” as the designer himself admitted. This season, Calcaterra’s offering was intimate and contemporary — the clothes discreetly and elegantly embracing the wearer with each strut.
Backstage at Arthur Arbesser. Photo by Giulia Mantovani.
Staying on emotions-turned-garments path, another surprise was Arthur Arbesser‘s collection — or more so, his tribute to his grandmother; I’ll let you decide. Inspired by an archive of fabrics from his late grandma’s wardrobe made up of pieces from the 1920s up until the 1980s; the designer played with silk, crêpe and cotton. Arbesser more than successfully showed us the incredibly nostalgic connection both on and off the catwalk.
The designer found an old box full of the fabric cut-outs from every single garment she’d ever owned. He kept it as a reference and decided to combine them with his own old fabrics from the studio, which that he used in several past productions. The result was a collection that interweaved his work life and his grandmother’s — one of the most emotional shows of the season.
Backstage at Annakiki. Photo by YU Nagai.
Annakiki took us on a fashion trip and not any kind of a trip — they took us back to the future and the past. Anna Yang envisioned a girl from the future that travel back to the ‘80s. She presented a collection with an immaculate equilibrium of masculine and feminine contrasts — from contoured structures, to wide-shouldered power suits, and exaggerated sleeves. And speaking of exaggerations, Yang also featured a variety of luxury oversized accessories — from metal glasses and crystal appliqués to custom-printed hair scrunchies. The time-travelling Annakiki girl sure knows how to mix the blazing style of feminism from the ’80s with futuristic elements
N21
Allesandro Dell’Acqua took his inspiration for the latest N21 collection from the Saint Laurent’s scandalous “Libération” collection from 1971; which the designer admitted he finds modern. Aiming to mix feminine and masculine, Dell’Acqua presented N21’s trademark silhouettes with an erotic touch. A little touch of bare skin? Checked. “At this moment, eroticism is the best situation,” the designer himself stated.
Anteprima
Next on the fashion map? Havana, seen through Anteprima‘s scope. The 35th anniversary of the Havana Biennial inspired desginer Izumi Ogino, who combined the beauty and art of the city into Anteprima’s collection — with raffia taking centre stage in not only the clothes but also the bags and hats. Always wanting to make women feel comfortable yet sexy, from collection to collection Ogino has shown us the Anteprima woman is sporty and elegant. Even though she truly believes in the concept of “beauty is where you find it,” this time she found it in Havana.
Backstage at Vivetta. Photo by Giulia Mantovani.
The summer atmosphere of the ’60s was present at Vivetta, who gave us a glimpse into her family vacations in Greece. Corollas of daisies blossoms on macramé lace? Chiffon dresses embroidered with shiny Swarovski crystals? Flamboyant geometric jewels on full-skirt dresses? Majestically airy architectural elements? Is this all possible in the busy times we are living while also being comfortable? Be sure that this is what Vivetta Ponti wants us to believe, combining fabulous items with flat shoes; for a woman that lives every day with confidence while running her errands.
Backstage at ICEBERG. Photo by Giulia Mantovani.
Do you believe in mermaids? James Long from ICEBERG sure does. Actually, we all do after watching his show “Underwater Lovers.” Vivid pastel-sequinned swimwear and minidresses and long colour-panelled silk dresses transported us right into the sea. The collection was aptly shown at Bagni Misteriosi (“Mysterious Baths”) — a great place for Long’s first womenswear-only collection.
Backstage at Blumarine. Photo by Giulia Mantovani.
Romance is not dead, or at least this is what Blumarine wants us to believe. Dedicating the latest collection to kindness, designer Ana Molinari created for a dreamy girl, reserved yet playful. The collection’s details could be seen everywhere from the catwalk carpet. The designer embodied the Blumarine girl into one that wears sweaters with an embroidered message that politely says “Thank You.” Actually… we thank you. Mixing romance with kindness was something one had to do and I couldn’t think of a better result.
And, in case you think there isn’t possibly anything else that could be added, allow me to prove you wrong. Bows of all sizes, degradè tulle and pink drapes gave us combined to form ethereal and voluptuous silhouettes; while sinuous cuts and shades of blue made us reminisce of the sea — Molinari’s greatest love. Every element blended perfectly with elegant craftsmanship — a great combination all under the romantic world of Blumarine and a genius, discreet approach to feminity.
This is how Milan Fashion Week ended and it only makes me think of Paris. I’m curious to find out each houses’ inspiration for the season and to be part of the short trips they will take us to. See you in Paris!
Check out the first part of our full backstage cover of MFW here.
words. Landiana Yolo
photography. Giulia Mantovani + YU Nagai
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