defying boundaries | copenhagen fashion week ss24 round up

photography. Maria Biardzka

Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) has built an illustrious name for itself within the industry, valuing culture and circularity. Held from August 7 to 11, fashion editors and influencers alike flocked to the capital of Denmark, greeted with collections that embrace classic silhouettes, androgynous dressing, and see-through fabrics. This season, The Garment, Lovechild 1979, A. Roege Hove, Stine Goya, Henrik Vibskov, Munthe, and J. Lindeberg showed spring/summer 2024 collections that not only encompassed CPHFW’s values but felt expressive and authentic.

The Garment has always had a seasonless approach to fashion and their SS24 collection is no different. Designer duo Sophia Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen married feminine features with masculine tailoring, pulling off an effortless and alluring mood. Semi-sheer knitted long-sleeve dresses hung gracefully from the body, paired with crisp oversized trousers. Crocheted tops and bras that resemble doilies are shown under leather bombers and structured blazers, solidifying a constant juxtaposition. Trenches inspired by the 80s, dresses taking on the look of 50s aprons, and knitted hats loosely based on 19th-century headwear seamlessly matched the location of the show, Thorvaldsen’s museum, nodding to its history and beauty. 

Inspired by the work of American photographer Irving Penn, creative director of Lovechild 1979, Mia Kappelgaard, designed a collection full of body-hugging silhouettes and lush fabrics. Titled ‘Sensitive Standards,’ the collection constantly juxtaposes fabrics. Silk slip dresses find themselves under wool suiting and light cotton sets are paired with leather shoulder bags. Whilst the looks are structured and workwear inspired, they give shape to the body; blazers cinch at the waist and flowy dresses follow the figure. The muted colour palette gives way to a dusty pink that feels current and delicate in more classic silhouettes. Adorned with simple yet impactful (and large) gold earrings, necklaces, and bracelets, the collection revolutionises effortlessness. 

Amalie Røge Hove, founder of the namesake brand, A. Roege Hove, is known for redefining knitwear season after season, and her tenth collection is no exception. Inspired by the allure of summer, the collection embraces exposed skin, showing looks that are close-fitting, sheer, and barely-there. Knitted boleros are paired alongside scantily bra tops, semi-sheer mini dresses expose colourful briefs, and cropped jackets with low-rise capris show off the midriff. Soft and bold colours are perfectly counterbalanced throughout every sensual design, solidifying Hove’s attention to detail. Strappy heels in partnership with Studio Amelia complement the collection beautifully, while jewellery in collaboration with Georg Jensen—launching in September—shows off the power of combining classic jewellery with knitwear.

Stine Goya’s SS24 collection titled ‘Homecoming’ reflects the joy of feeling at home. Reworking signature Stine Goya styles and inspired by the colours of Copenhagen, the collection encapsulates everything that ‘home’ symbolises. For Goya, that means embracing her Danish roots and assuming them. The dinner table in the middle of the runway was just one way of doing that, nodding to the street parties that Denmark is known for. Vibrant colours burst onto the scene, with sky blues, bold pinks, and lilacs coupled with playful floral prints. Structured waistcoats embellished with floral prints give a contemporary look to casual suiting, while puff sleeve mini dresses with empire waistlines give the collection a romantic feel. 

Combining the idea of cardboard boxes and the sport of boxing, Henrik Vibskov presented their newest collection, ‘The Unboxing Waltz Tutorial.’ Focusing on the unboxing of physical and symbolic boxes, the brand used an actual boxing ring during its runway show to merge the two themes harmoniously. Long sleeve turtlenecks and skinny trousers in a textured fabric resembling bubble wrap and slogans like “out for delivery” being knitted into tops, jumpers, and midi skirts build on the inspiration. Even boxy cropped jackets took on the theme. Lace-up details, layering, and colourful plaids added dimension to the looks, as well as abstract patterns and shapes printed onto garments. 

Conscious heritage brand Munthe weaved fabrics, colours, and silhouettes together for their SS24 collection. Creative director Naja Munthe was inspired by art galleries and how they seamlessly blend different bodies of work—ones that stand out from the crowd but perform wonderfully as a group. Adding to the theme, New York-based artist Heather J. Chontos and London-based artist Aline Gaiad worked on varying prints that made their way onto the looks. Donkey-printed graphic tees paired with baggy denim, cotton eyelet dresses and two-piece sets, and colourful knitted crewnecks with denim skirts peeking through were individual, but worked as a whole. Sequins, patchwork denim, sheer fabrics, and more create their own fashion exhibition within the collection. 

Bridging the gap between fashion and sportswear is what J. Lindeberg does best. Their latest motocross-inspired collection is the perfect blend of sporty styles juxtaposed with richer fashion pieces. Structured suits covered in abstract prints are coupled with sporty tops and caps. Zip-up vests and matching trousers are adorned with patterned bucket hats and bum bags. Biker jackets, and leather co-ords are seemingly both practical and chic. Comfy hoodies, bike shorts, and classic tees in cobalt blue and lime green are strewn throughout the collection. Bandanas, bike helmets, gloves, and goggles accentuate the sportswear and add crucial details to the collection. Each look combines the practicality of activewear and the trendiness of street style.

Solidifying its importance in the fashion industry, CPHFW continues to highlight brands that defy boundaries and design consciously.

photography. Maria Biardzka
words. Amber Louise

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