British-born Oly Innes, now based in Los Angeles, runs the men’s board at top model agency — STORM LA. Schön! speaks with him to ask how he got started as an agent, what he is looking for and what changes need to be made in the modelling industry.
How did you become an agent?
I studied fashion photography at London College of Fashion in London. I loved fashion imagery but knew I never wanted to be a photographer. I actually went straight into a boutique women’s model agency in London for a year. I would recommend anyone who wants to work in fashion to start at a model agency as an intern or junior. It is incredible training to learn who is who in the industry quickly. You learn who are the top casting directors, photographers, stylists, you see all the collections, editorials, campaigns, etc. I then went into shoot production for a few years working for Urban Outfitters in London, then Wonderland Magazine. I kept getting brought to LA and fell in love with the city. One trip turned into me being offered a job, and then I moved in 2017. I worked in production for a few years assisting on some big shoots. Then I saw STORM Models from London were opening an agency in LA, and so I’ve been with the team from nearly day one in 2019. So using the production contacts I have built up in LA over the years is very useful working as an agent.
Tell us about STORM LA.
I run the men’s board at STORM LA. It is awesome to be a part of the STORM family. It is an iconic agency and the list of supermodels they have discovered and launched is unparalleled. STORM LA is a boutique agency, which I love because it means I get to know all the guys really well. As an agent, it’s extremely important you know all your guys, their career goals, what they do and don’t like to do, what sports they are into and special skills, because you get asked the strangest questions. I built up the men’s board myself, so I’m extremely proud of the guys we represent now and what they are doing.
What do you look for in potential models?
I think clients know that my guys have swag — they are slightly unusual, maybe. I try not to take on guys that are similar to what other agencies in LA have. We are a British agency and I am British myself, so I want to bring that London edge to LA. Diversity and representation are extremely important to me. My favourite signings are the guys that are totally unique. Very proud of Chad Johnson; he had not modelled before and was the first plus size guy to be featured on Models.com. He has modelled for LEVI’S, American Eagle, Nike, H&M. His life changed overnight. Also really like D-LO who has vitiligo all over his body and has been booking some really cool jobs — he is the only vitiligo model on Nike and got a VMAN cover styled by Nicola Formichetti.
Tell us about models you have discovered.
Very proud of Donovan Wildfong, who was a cool little band and skater kid. He had never modelled before and became a big success story overnight. His first job was a big Fear Of God campaign, which led to a loyal relationship with the brand. Going with him to see an enormous billboard on the side of a building on Sunset Boulevard was incredible. His GAP campaign earlier this year, which was in every store, was also a joyous moment. He’s a great kid and has worked hard. He is now NYC-based and doing some awesome gigs there.
What would you like to see more of within the modelling industry?
I love to see model activists. For a long time, models have been voiceless mannequins. But now things have changed, and brands and agents are looking for models that are passionate about causes and charities. One of our top guys is a Native American guy called Haatepah who is an Indigenous rights activist. He is regularly booked because people admire his amazing work within his community and how he uses his modelling to raise awareness for his culture. We work together to make sure the jobs and brands he works with acknowledge and understand who he is and what is important to him. Of course, very excited to see brands and designers embracing models of all sizes, always looking to sign potential husky guys who can break down barriers. Models with visible differences. When a model who is not your stereotypical idea of a fashion model gets booked on a big job it is exciting to feel like you are helping move the industry forward.
What is the best way for a model to be discovered?
Get a friend to take simple iPhone pictures in casual, fitted clothes. A few angles, full length and close ups of your face. You don’t need professional pics, filters, retouching, lighting. We know what we are looking for. Tell us where you are, how old you are, your height and your Instagram link, email us at submissions@stormmanagement-la.com.
3/4-length cashmere coat. Marinella
tailored trousers. Cellar Door
cardboard hat with newspaper cutouts. Stylist’s Own
3/4-length cashmere coat. Marinella
tailored trousers. Cellar Door
cardboard hat with newspaper cutouts. Stylist’s Own
Credits
No unflattering angles here in this Schön! editorial photographed by Guglielmo Benassi with art direction and fashion by Giulia Santoro who styles Luca Miceli in looks by Marinella, Cellar Door, Polo Ralph Lauren and others.
cardboard hat with newspaper cutouts. Stylist’s Own
opposite
3/4-length cashmere coat. Marinella
cardboard hat with newspaper cutouts. Stylist’s Own
cardboard hat with newspaper cutouts. Stylist’s Own
opposite
3/4-length cashmere coat. Marinella
cardboard hat with newspaper cutouts. Stylist’s Own
Credits
ribbed crew-neck tank top. United Colors of Benetton
parachute trousers. Stüssy
lace-up boots. Timberland
ribbed crew-neck tank top. United Colors of Benetton
parachute trousers. Stüssy
lace-up boots. Timberland
Credits
polo shirt. Aelfric Eden
denim shorts. BDG
rubber boots. MSCHF
polo shirt. Aelfric Eden
denim shorts. BDG
rubber boots. MSCHF
Credits
classic long-sleeve shirt. Dolce & Gabbana
pinstripe wool suit. The World’s Best Cloth by Carnet
leather derby shoes. Paraboot
silk tie. Claudia
opposite
classic long-sleeve shirt. Dolce & Gabbana
pinstripe wool suit. The World’s Best Cloth by Carnet
leather derby shoes. Paraboot
silk tie. Claudia
classic long-sleeve shirt. Dolce & Gabbana
pinstripe wool suit. The World’s Best Cloth by Carnet
leather derby shoes. Paraboot
silk tie. Claudia
opposite
classic long-sleeve shirt. Dolce & Gabbana
pinstripe wool suit. The World’s Best Cloth by Carnet
leather derby shoes. Paraboot
silk tie. Claudia
Credits
striped woven cotton sweater. Marks & Spencer
short striped cotton + boxers. Intimissimi
jeans. BDG
metallic studded belt. Stylist’s Own
striped woven cotton sweater. Marks & Spencer
short striped cotton + boxers. Intimissimi
jeans. BDG
metallic studded belt. Stylist’s Own
Credits
long-sleeve cotton t-shirt. Stylist’s Own
technical fabric cargo shorts. South2 West8
sneakers + socks. New Balance
opposite
long-sleeve cotton t-shirt. Stylist’s Own
long-sleeve cotton t-shirt. Stylist’s Own
technical fabric cargo shorts. South2 West8
sneakers + socks. New Balance
opposite
long-sleeve cotton t-shirt. Stylist’s Own
Credits
crew-neck embroidered cotton t-shirt. Polo Ralph Lauren
socks. New Balance
crew-neck embroidered cotton t-shirt. Polo Ralph Lauren
socks. New Balance
Since 2002, fashion industry heavyweights have flocked to the ITS Contest founded by Barbara Franchin to discuss who and what will shape the future of fashion. Both Schön! and the ITS Contest share a philosophy of supporting and spotlighting new talent, and we joined the party in Trieste, Italy, to celebrate the ten finalists. Each year brings a fresh lineup of ten emerging young designers keenly attuned to the zeitgeist of their era. This year was no exception, and among those present was a jury of professionals specially invited to determine which designers’ offerings had legs in today’s fashion climate.
Which creatives inspired intrigue? What challenges do they face in today’s industry? How can we support aspiring designers to succeed? These questions hummed throughout the weekend-long event, and we turned to jurors Luca Rizzi, Mark C. O’Flaherty, Serge Carreira, and Tom Eerebout for more insight. As experts in their respective fields, each professional brought their own distinct perspectives to the table.
Mentorship
For a young designer, sourcing a mentor can be like rifling for a needle in a haystack. Fortunately, there are many mentorship programmes out there for designers who are dedicated to their craft. Events like the ITS Contest are crucial for giving young designers the visibility and support they need to succeed. “In today’s saturated media landscape, it’s important to have events that elevate new designers,” said fashion photographer and writer Mark C. O’Flaherty. “The ITS Contest provides a platform that ensures their work is taken seriously by both the industry and the wider world.”
Supporting young creatives comes second nature to juror Serge Carreira. As the Director of Emerging Brands Initiative at Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, Carreira specialises in building support programs for emerging designers. “Each designer is unique,” he says. “What makes the difference in their success is not how they break the rules, but how they play with them. There’s no single recipe for success—it’s more like a cocktail, a mix of various elements.”
The rewards for helping emerging creatives has proven to be a two-way street. For Carreira, the process is an insightful opportunity to see how designers constantly discover new ways to approach business. “What’s interesting is being involved in these processes without replacing the designer’s role—it’s about being alongside them to support them in reaching their goals.”
For fellow juror Luca Rizzi, the Tutoring & Consulting director for Pitti Immagine, the disastrous impact of COVID has made aiding designers early in their careers all the more crucial. “The industry has shifted significantly since COVID,” he says. “Independent brands are struggling the most, and our role is to help them find stability in this new environment.” As the leading force behind Pitti Immagine’s division aimed at helping and guiding talented designers in their professional pathway, Rizzi’s eye is attuned to discovering international fashion and design which aligns with sustainable and conscious living.
“At Pitti, we help designers find their right path,” Rizzi explained. “We work with both young and established designers to avoid mistakes in marketing and communication, ensuring they stay true to their creative vision.” A key part of his work is ensuring that young talent is mentored efficiently and protected from exploitative contracts. Rizzi’s initiative is part of Pitti Uomo, one of the most important fashion events for men’s fashion, and features collections from designers who are dedicated to sustainability, innovation, and creative craftsmanship. Most importantly, it offers them a space to showcase their collections in a high-profile, industry-leading context.
Sustainability
“Sustainability is a significant challenge, but many designers are taking meaningful steps, like using offcuts and natural dyes, to reduce their environmental impact,” says O’Flaherty. Sustainability continues to be a major theme in the fashion world and, unsurprisingly, was present throughout the collections belonging to each of the ten ITS contestants.
Yifan Yu’s ‘zoomorphia’ collection, for instance, responded to the growing movement against fur in the fashion industry. Meanwhile, Zhuen Cai’s collection, Chinese Garden Journey, highlighted humanity’s connection to nature and sustainability through his innovative use of fabric, including persimmon plant dyes. Finalist Qianhan Liu also used 90% repurposed leather in her lineup and Mijoda Dajomi’s collection was a fashion-based exploration of rainwater collection.
“Sustainability is no longer a buzzword—it’s a necessity,” says Rizzi. But upholding ethical eco-practices can be a tall and expensive order for emerging creatives with tight budgets. Acknowledging this, Rizzi believes that we need “systemic change” to help young designers “to make sustainability the standard in fashion, not a niche.”
Another factor limiting the growth of evolving brands is obtaining a sustainable stream of income. While this can be helped by the backing of a retailer the retail landscape is typically hard for designers to navigate. “Thanks to the digital boom and the struggles of traditional retailers, many brands cannot simply shift from wholesale to direct-to-consumer models overnight due to pricing and audience considerations,” says Carreira. “The retail market has become more closed off. For a while, programs like those from Matches, Net-a-Porter, and Essence were fantastic in promoting young designers, but as the digital bubble burst, these programs are now focusing more on security. It’s no longer about getting the ideas; it’s about how to bring those ideas to the customer.”
Storytelling
How exactly do young designers capture the attention of retailers and customers? For Belgian-based stylist and fashion consultant Tom Eerebout, judging the emerging talent was an opportunity to support new voices in fashion. “I love working with designers who have fun with their collections,” he shared. “Fashion is about storytelling, and the most exciting designers are those who take us into another world.” Also in agreement, Carreira expressed his excitement for designers who draw inspiration from their personal experiences. “They’re constantly refining their methods, making sustainability an integral part of their design process.”
“The best designers today are those who can translate their personal stories into collections that resonate with the broader fashion landscape,” believes O’Flaherty. One look at the nominated collections, and it’s easy to see the importance of designers who combine personal narratives with commercial creativity. For his ITS nominated collection, Patrick Taylor drew inspiration from his childhood photographs and experiences of skiing and sailing with his family. Other personal narratives exuded from collections by Naya El Ahdab, which traced her journey as a disabled woman, and Macy Grimshaw, whose work centered on her grandmother’s battle with Alzheimer’s disease.
For the jury, storytelling and social relevance seemed to be the reigning elements distinguishing one designer from another. The ITS mentorship program was highlighted by the selection of Maximilian Raynor from the UK, who was awarded the ITS Jury’s Rewarding Honors for his powerful use of historical and artistic references. “His work made me smile,” said Rizzi of Raynor’s design process. “He brings joy through his creations, which is something we need more of in fashion.”
Collaboration Over Competition
Once an intern for renowned fashion stylist, creative consultant, and fashion mentor Anna Trevelyan, Eerebout quickly became her first assistant before going on to collaborate with notable icons such as Lady Gaga, Kylie Minogue, Rita Ora, Banks, Austin Butler, and Sylvie Kreusch, while his editorial work has been featured in international publications such as Vogue, Interview, V, Numero, Harper’s Bazaar, and Elle.
“Anna Trevelyan was a major influence on me, as she was deeply involved in supporting young designers,” says the stylist. Judging for the ITS Contest provided him with the opportunity to continue his mentor’s ethos of helping others succeed. “ I’ve always felt it’s important to support new talent, and when I got the chance to work here, I felt like a kid in a candy store. The opportunity to dive into the archive and portfolios was incredible.”
Instead of a winner-takes-all format, this year’s ITS Contest adopted a more inclusive approach, offering support and recognition to all the selected designers. Barbara Franchin, founder of ITS Contest, explained: “Collaboration, rather than competition, is essential. Young designers need the support of the industry to thrive, and the challenges they face are best overcome when they’re united.”
With the theme of “Borderless,” the event exemplifies the global community’s desire to push past cultural and geographical boundaries to bring fresh ideas and artistic collaborations to the forefront. Senator Lucia Borgonzoni of Italy’s Ministry of Culture, who attended the event, lauded the initiative for its commitment to supporting young creatives, stating, “The ITS Contest provides a platform that celebrates diversity and innovation, key drivers in today’s rapidly evolving cultural and artistic dialogue.”
Eerebout echoed these sentiments, saying: “Events like this are so important because they bring people together and provide young designers with a platform to showcase their work. It’s not all about the big names like Gucci or Valentino. We need to make space for these young talents to shine.”
shirt. JW Anderson
shirt (worn as a skirt). Paul Smith
shoes. Roger Vivier
earrings. Givenchy Vintage @ Constantina Vintage
stockings. Chusette
shirt. JW Anderson
shirt (worn as a skirt). Paul Smith
shoes. Roger Vivier
earrings. Givenchy Vintage @ Constantina Vintage
stockings. Chusette
Credits
Spend one sweet afternoon with Mirabai in this Schön! editorial photographed by Vahab Bandari with fashion by Carlos Mangubat who dresses Mirabai in looks by JW Anderson, Gucci, Lanvin and others, with hair and make up by artist Rosie Fiucane.
shirt. JW Anderson
shirt (worn as a skirt). Paul Smith
earring. Givenchy Vintage @ Constantina Vintage
opposite
trench coat + shirt. Burberry
jeans. Lanvin
shoes. Gucci
shirt. JW Anderson
shirt (worn as a skirt). Paul Smith
earring. Givenchy Vintage @ Constantina Vintage
opposite
trench coat + shirt. Burberry
jeans. Lanvin
shoes. Gucci
top. Simone Rocha
shirt (worn as skirt). Roberto Cavalli
shoes. Stylist’s Own
socks. Chusette
opposite
top. Simone Rocha
top. Simone Rocha
shirt (worn as skirt). Roberto Cavalli
shoes. Stylist’s Own
socks. Chusette
opposite
top. Simone Rocha
Credits
blazer. Comme des Garçons PLAY
trousers. Etro
tie (worn as belt). Dolce & Gabbana
opposite
blazer. Comme des Garçons PLAY
trousers. Etro
tie (worn as belt). Dolce & Gabbana
blazer. Comme des Garçons PLAY
trousers. Etro
tie (worn as belt). Dolce & Gabbana
opposite
blazer. Comme des Garçons PLAY
trousers. Etro
tie (worn as belt). Dolce & Gabbana
