interview | Gauhar Ali

Gauhar Ali is making waves in the fashion industry through her namesake brand. Hailing from Italy, the designer is bringing together a harmonious blend of practicality and style, tailored for the contemporary individual who appreciates the nuances of fashion evolution. Rooted in the philosophy of geometric patterns and inspired by both organic forms and industrial spectacles, Ali’s designs are a tribute to historical elements with specific garments that honour the past while boldly challenging conventional fashion norms, sparking meaningful conversations about design and identity.

Schön! sits down with Gauhar Ali to discuss the craft of fashion design, the brand’s “Raver Chic” collection, and more.

full look. GAUHAR ALI

What inspired you to pursue a career in fashion design, and how has your journey been so far?

Fashion has always been part of me, though maybe not in the conventional sense. Growing up as a millennial, my style journey started differently. Our parents often dressed us as they pleased, and back then, we didn’t have the same access to trends or the vast world of fashion that kids do today. The experience of occasionally wearing things that didn’t quite feel like ‘me’ actually sparked my creativity. I began experimenting, taking garments apart, and reimagining them into looks that aligned with my own taste. Over time, this became second nature, and studying at Polimoda was a turning point. It honed my skills, refined my approach, and deepened my connection to fashion. For me, this journey has been about uncovering and embracing new aspects of my identity, each one woven into the clothes I create. Though the path has had its twists, each step has added richness to the journey, making it all the more rewarding

full look. GAUHAR ALI
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full look. GAUHAR ALI

How would you describe your design philosophy, and how does it reflect in your collections?

My design philosophy strikes a balance between making a statement and staying understated—creating pieces that speak without shouting, much like my own style. Each Gauhar Ali collection is a fusion of personal expression and the inspirations that resonate with me in that moment. Every garment is carefully crafted to capture both my journey and the diverse influences shaping it. A great example of this is my thesis collection, featured in Vogue Italia. This collection explored the deconstruction of symbolic elements tied to religion and culture, allowing me to engage deeply with meaningful themes and present them through a fresh lens. Ultimately, my philosophy is about storytelling through design, blending introspection with broader narratives to create pieces that feel both personal and universal.

full look. GAUHAR ALI
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full look. GAUHAR ALI

Can you walk us through your creative process from concept to final product?

As a perfectionist, my creative process involves a lot of back-and-forth refinement—going from zero to a hundred, and sometimes, back again. The “Raver Chic” collection really embodied this approach. I wanted to make something that felt extraordinary in its everyday essence, something relatable yet quietly striking.

For “Raver Chic,” I looked to nature for inspiration. I captured photos of organic textures and earthy formations. These often-overlooked details became the basis for my prints, which I kept softly faded, honouring their subtle beauty. It’s all about finding that balance: making a statement that doesn’t overwhelm but invites a closer look, revealing wonder in the seemingly mundane. The brand’s colour philosophy centers around rich, dark tones accented with carefully placed bursts of colour like neon greens or vibrant purples, to create contrast and intrigue. This palette has been a signature in my collections, with the recent “Athleisure” line embracing these shades to bring modern, dynamic energy to each piece.

What trends in the fashion industry do you find most exciting right now, and how do you incorporate them into your work?

While many believe in following trends to stay relevant, I believe in the importance of staying true to the brand’s core identity. It’s like the difference between style and fashion. Trends often drive brands toward producing similar designs, which can risk overshadowing their distinct values and creative vision. What defines us isn’t necessarily the latest trend but rather a sense of time, place, and category that resonates with the brand’s essence.

If I were to highlight one trend that excites me, it’s the influence of music-guided streetwear. This style brings an energy that feels both raw and complete, with designs rooted in the deconstructed aesthetic but evolving into cohesive, expressive images. It’s a trend that allows authenticity, elements I enjoy incorporating into my work.

The previous collection, “Athleisure,” merges a refined selection of neon colours, primarily green and purple, with ergonomically designed silhouettes suited for both active outdoor wear and luxurious settings. The ombré gradient transitioning from neon hues to black was thoughtfully crafted to evoke the subtle movement of sound waves, infusing each piece with a rhythmic visual flow.

full look. GAUHAR ALI
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full look. GAUHAR ALI

How do you approach sustainability in your designs, and what steps are you taking to ensure your collections are environmentally friendly?

Sustainability is central to our approach, and we’re thoughtful about every material choice. We pivoted toward natural, sustainable options like pure cotton, recycled polyester, sustainable denim and eco-leather, aligning with our goal to minimise environmental impact. Gauhar Ali emphasizes minimal to zero fabric waste. Any excess fabric from the sampling and production process is thoughtfully repurposed into other designs, ensuring sustainable use of materials across collections.

We also aim to inspire sustainability through the type of garments we create. Each piece is designed as a long-term investment, crafted with high-quality stitching and timeless aesthetics. Rather than aligning with fast fashion’s single-use mindset, our garments are intended to be worn and cherished in various settings, defying the trend of disposable fashion and encouraging a more mindful wardrobe.

What are some of the biggest challenges you’ve faced in your career, and how did you overcome them?

Coming from Pakistan, I faced a unique challenge. While fashion here is vibrant, the industry’s core focus often centers around culturally driven garments. My journey required me to step beyond that established market, forging my own path with no guarantees of success. But I held fast to my belief: if you have a dream, you stand by it until it finds its wings—and that’s exactly what I did. The highly competitive Italian fashion scene presented another hurdle, surrounded by exceptional emerging talent. Yet, these challenges only strengthened my vision and deepened my resolve. Building a team that embodies my brand’s ethos has been less of a single challenge and more of an ongoing journey—a process of aligning with like-minded creatives and fostering a shared vision. Over time, I’ve learned that sometimes meeting a challenge head-on isn’t the only answer. Embracing each as a bridge to something greater has been essential to my journey and the evolution of my brand.

full look. GAUHAR ALI
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full look. GAUHAR ALI

What was the inspiration behind your new collection “Raver Chic”?

“Raver Chic” is pure, unapologetic energy—a collection born from the electric pulse of Italy’s underground music scene. This isn’t just clothing; it’s an experience, a chance to step into the world of a raver who commands attention without lifting a finger. Every piece in “Raver Chic” channels the hypnotic draw of electronic music, blending bold design with the effortless cool that defines rave culture.

The collection is about owning the night, embodying a style that doesn’t follow rules but sets them. I imagined iconic performers on stage, immersed in sound, wearing pieces that make them unforgettable. “Raver Chic” is my answer to that vision—a lineup of statement looks that aren’t just worn; they’re lived in. It’s more than fashion; it’s about showing up as the most unfiltered, iconic version of yourself, no holds barred.

full look. GAUHAR ALI

What unique elements or themes can we expect to see in the “Raver Chic” collection?

The “Raver Chic” collection introduces a thoughtfully curated palette inspired by elemental colours and mineral tones, grounding each piece in a natural, almost-metallic aesthetic. This collection doesn’t just focus on visuals, it’s a multi-sensory experience achieved through a mix of organic fabrics, specialised treatments, and textural details. Layered prints and physical textures bring out intricate design elements that subtly pay tribute to overlooked yet noticeable details in the natural world, creating pieces that feel grounded.

One of the key innovations in “Raver Chic” is the use of Dermatex, a unique performance fabric designed to absorb excess moisture and reduce friction. This fabric is ideal for high-energy activities like raving or DJing, where constant movement and variable lighting conditions demand both comfort and durability. By integrating Dermatex, the collection enhances wearability, making each garment functional as well as style-oriented.

Denim also plays a significant role in “Raver Chic,” chosen for its timeless versatility and hard-edged nature. Denim’s durability and trend-resistant nature have made it an enduring classic, so its inclusion here adds an authentic, raw texture that complements the collection’s theme. Reinterpreted through the Gauhar Ali lens, denim is given new life, blending its classic ruggedness with a focused creative sensibility. Together, these elements make “Raver Chic” an innovative, functional, and visually rich collection that honours both the power of nature and the high-energy world of music and movement.

fashion. GAUHAR ALI

Who is the target audience for “Raver Chic,” and how do you envision them wearing these pieces?

“Raver Chic” is crafted for those who live and breathe the energy of electronic music festivals. Festival-goers, ravers, and music enthusiasts. Just as music unites, this collection welcomes everyone, though it finds its heart in the vibrant, immersive world of the European music scene as our fashion transcends borders. In spaces where neon lights and pulsing sound often drown out the vivid colours around, “Raver Chic” reclaims understated hues—greys, whites, petrol greens, and of course, timeless black, to create a striking yet subtle presence. These are the colours that, in the midst of bright lights and crowded spaces, truly stand out and become focal points.

I envision these pieces worn by those who want to feel effortless yet unforgettable. The goal is for each garment to feel so comfortable it’s almost like a second skin, letting the wearer move freely. “Raver Chic” is for the music makers and the listeners, those who wish to blend confidence with comfort, creating an atmosphere where style feels as natural as being in your own element.

full look. GAUHAR ALI

What were some of the creative challenges you faced while designing “Raver Chic,” and how did you address them?

Designing “Raver Chic” presented fewer creative challenges than anticipated, yet one significant obstacle was balancing the rawness of organic textures with wearability for everyday life. The collection’s prints are subtle observations of natural elements, not meant to highlight their presence but simply to record and showcase them from a real-time perspective.

Layering these delicate, ephemeral textures was a true test of precision. My goal was to incorporate their essence without overpowering the overall design. Achieving this balance required thoughtful layering and a clear creative vision.

What are your plans for the future, and are there any upcoming projects or collaborations you can share with us?

The future for Gauhar Ali is brimming with exciting possibilities, although revealing too much would spoil the element of surprise that fuels creativity. What I can share is that music will remain a guiding force in all my endeavours, serving as the heartbeat of my designs. As I explore new projects and collaborations, I’m eager to see how this dynamic influence will shape my work moving forward.

Gauhar Ali envisions expanding globally, bringing the brand to audiences beyond Europe. Japan is a key market we’re exploring, inspired by the innovative world of Japanese designers like Yohji Yamamoto. There’s something profoundly compelling about the Japanese approach to sartorial fashion, their mastery of form, fabric, and the art of restraint speaks deeply to our aesthetic. This global expansion isn’t just about growth; it’s about connecting with cultures that resonate with our design philosophy and embracing the artistry that shapes fashion worldwide. The journey is unpredictable, and that’s what makes it so thrilling. I can’t wait to see where this path leads next!!.

full look. GAUHAR ALI
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full look. GAUHAR ALI

Your garments are gender fluid and unisex — why was this important for you to do?

Creating gender-fluid and unisex garments is fundamental to my vision because fashion is, at its core, an extension of art. To impose gender restrictions on art would undermine its very essence. Just as artistic expression knows no boundaries, neither should our clothing choices.

The garments I design are meant to empower individuals to express themselves freely, without the limitations imposed by societal norms and constructs. When you wear Gauhar Ali, it’s a personal statement, an embodiment of who you are without the need for loud proclamations. It’s about authenticity, allowing each person to embrace their identity on their own terms.

full look. GAUHAR ALI

Lastly, when someone is wearing one of your designs, what do you hope they feel?

When someone wears one of my designs, I want them to feel an authentic connection that transcends mere fashion. My brand was born from my own sense of style, crafted for individuals who share that same spirit. I often find myself donning my creations, not out of obligation but because they resonate with who I am.

Each piece is designed to feel like home, evoking nostalgia and sparking cherished memories. They provide a transformative experience, offering a sense of disguise while still making a subtle statement. My garments embody the luxury of everyday wear, perfect for those special moments as well as for daily life. Ultimately, the combination of nostalgia, subtlety, and luxury offers wearers a truly unique experience that goes beyond just wearing clothes. It’s about embracing a feeling and making each moment, special or ordinary, feel extraordinary.