haunting beauty | alexander mcqueen ss25

For Spring/Summer 2025, McQueen’s new creative director, Seán McGirr, draws deeply from his Irish roots, reimagining the banshee — a figure steeped in folklore — as a powerful muse. For McGirr, the banshee is more than a ghostly presence; she’s a force of emotion, memory, and strength. This personal connection, one passed down through stories from his mother, feels alive in this collection, where myth and modernity meet in a celebration of McQueen’s legacy.

The banshee’s cry, both haunting and forthright, is woven throughout the designs. The collection redefines British tailoring with a rebellious twist. Sharp suiting — a McQueen hallmark — is subverted, with T-bar closures adding a distinctive edge. Tailoring feels as if it’s in motion, with shoulders pinched and raised, giving wearers a streetwise, defiant posture. Classic British fabrics like wool mohair and cotton poplin, rooted in heritage, are given new life with sculptural, modern silhouettes.

There’s a tension between structure and softness. Silk chiffon is pleated and manipulated, creating garments that feel both fragile and powerful, much like the banshee herself. The illusion of coming undone is ever-present, as delicate fabrics like organza and cobweb lace appear shredded, distressed, or hand-washed, giving each piece a raw, tactile quality. Dresses are embroidered with fine silver bullion and 3D gold metal detailing, tracing the body like ghostly whispers, while trailing organza evokes the tendrils of the banshee’s comb.

The colour palette amplifies the collection’s otherworldly feel. Ivory, jet black, and silvered grey are punctuated by bursts of blazing yellow and orange — hues that seem to flicker like flames in the twilight. McGirr’s use of these “crepuscular” tones — those found in the fading light of dusk — underscores the tension between light and dark, the physical and the ethereal.

In terms of materials, McGirr’s deep respect for craftsmanship shines through. Lightweight wool tailoring comes in classic houndstooth, tobacco check, and crisp wool gabardine, all woven in British mills. Hand-treated silks take centre stage, particularly in the intricate ‘banshee’ embroideries, which combine frayed and ruffled silk with shimmering metal sequins and embroidery, creating an eerie yet beautiful texture. The tactile quality of the fabrics and the attention to detail are quintessentially McQueen — both haunting and exquisite.

Accessories also play on these themes of strength and myth. Bags are curved and finished with McQueen’s signature T-bar, while shoes take on sculptural forms. The upturned toe of the Sparrow boots and the brogue-detailed Crow platforms are grounded in British tradition, but with a futuristic edge. Jewellery is equally evocative, inspired by the objects rooted in banshee lore, like combs and trailing chains, adding a touch of folklore to the modern pieces.

Spring/Summer 2025 is McGirr’s bold statement — a reminder that beauty and power often lie in the tension between the ethereal and the strong. Much like the banshee, McQueen’s latest collection is both haunting and unforgettable.