Over the past few days, the fashion scene was permeated by the lingering anticipation of Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Chanel. But no one was prepared for the sheer scale of the universe he planned to unveil. Staged amidst an astonishing, planetary set at the Grand Palais – an entire solar system suspended overhead – the Spring/Summer 2026 collection signalled his intent to break down and rebuild the house’s codes on a cosmic scale. This was “the Universe of Chanel,” as he mentioned in the show notes, and Blazy was interested in exploring the idea that “Chanel is about love” and the radical “freedom worn and won” by its creator, Gabrielle Chanel.
The front row was a constellation in itself, featuring Nicole Kidman (accompanied by her daughters), Margot Robbie, Tilda Swinton, Pedro Pascal, Penelope Cruz, and newly appointed brand ambassador Ayo Edebiri.
The collection opened with the most classic transgression: the menswear borrowed from Boy Capel – the shirt and trousers we saw teased across their socials. This wasn’t a fashion story of a woman simply wearing men’s clothes, but rather a woman redefining that masculine energy. The white shirt, a key piece developed in a rare collaboration with the legendary Parisian shirtmaker Charvet, maintained its masculine proportions but was worn with a sense of fluid nonchalance. This utility was immediately subverted by suit jackets that were raw-edged and purposefully cut to new, defiant feminine shapes, often cropped at the waist. The famed British-at-heart tweeds were also made new: lighter, looser, and infinitely more tactile, proving that a woman’s power is won through a wardrobe where the practical is never separate from the seductive.
Blazy made a crucial statement about luxury and ownership by presenting pieces with the worn familiarity of the truly chic. The 2.55 bag appeared deliberately crashed, crushed, and cherished, with its traditional burgundy lining exposed – a pointed message that a Chanel bag is meant to be used and loved across decades.
Other bags included a new hero piece: a woven leather clutch nodding subtly to Blazy’s Bottega Veneta past, as well as a striking maxi flap bag in plush, furry orange and black stripes. Continuing the celestial theme of the set, the collection introduced a new take on the Sphere design, a small, round bag in a deep, planet-like blue accented with constellation-like gold details and a CC kiss-lock clasp.
Frayed tweeds looked gently passed down but subtly advanced with precise embroidery. Even the house’s signature motifs were in motion: the graphic precision of black and white was softened, realised in fluid knitted silks that draped effortlessly, while florals became abstract, with hand-painted prints cascading like unfurling petals.
As the collection built towards its finale, it affirmed that the house’s codes are absolutely future-forward. Material experimentation was layered and rich: the architecture of the classic suit was literally laid bare, with tweed grids translated into hand-knotted knits and transparencies. Jewellery was loaded and treasured, mixing the real with the ephemeral: baroque pearls, glass planets, and enamelled chains worn carelessly. Footwear, featuring the familiar two-tone toe-cap, was grounded by perfectly realisable heels, built not for posing, but to securely propel the wearer forward.
The show’s emotional peak was reached with the final look, worn by model Awar Odhiang, who stepped out in a deceptively simple white silk T-shirt paired with a monumental skirt. This skirt was an astonishing carnival of colour and texture – a multi-hued, feathered explosion resembling a Flemish bouquet, which the design team nicknamed the ‘Piña Colada’ dress. As the final notes of the buoyant ‘90s track ‘Rhythm is a Dancer’ filled the Grand Palais, Odhiang broke character, grinning and joyfully twirling the massive skirt across the runway.
This moment of pure, spontaneous energy perfectly distilled Blazy’s vision: elegance should be ecstatic, and luxury should feel like freedom. As the lights came up, the entire room – from the legendary faces in the front row to the international press – rose in an effusive standing ovation, confirming that Matthieu Blazy had successfully blasted Chanel into a bold, joyful new era.
Discover the collection here.
photography. courtesy of Chanel
words. Gennaro Costanzo
