The Autumn/Winter 2025 season was a study in contrasts — high glamour met irreverent play, storied houses introduced fresh perspectives, and designers pushed their own boundaries while reaffirming signature codes. From the sculptural exuberance of Marc Jacobs to the sharp, (and literary) elegance of Altuzarra, each collection offered a distinct vision. Wes Gordon’s Carolina Herrera soared to new heights, literally, while Veronica Leoni made her much-anticipated Calvin Klein debut, balancing sensuality with a taste of what’s to come. As the week came to a close with Thom Browne’s theatrical flourish, one thing was certain: New York designers continue their campaign to prove that the city’s fashion identity is as bold, diverse, and unapologetic as ever.
Christian Cowan
Few things are more theatrical on the NYFW calendar than a Christian Cowan runway, and this season certainly delivered on the brand’s reputation. From a thumping, techno-forward backtrack and thunderous sound effects opening the show, to the models’ dramatic walks that resembled malfunctioning robots and passionate dancers alike, the world of AW25 was deliciously obscene. Dresses were an exercise in range – chewed gum, heels as trim, polka dots of every shade, and a peacock-level array of feathers on the final look were observed. Kesha, Sam Smith, Cole Escola, and Anna Delvey even stopped by to enjoy the theatrics as well.
Tory Burch
The reign of new-Tory continues with the piercing gaze of Mona Tougaard, who opened the show for AW25 in a feathery, deep-blue top, velvet slacks with a zipper detail stemming from the bottom up, and a draped sweater pierced with a distinct, golden pin to keep the ensemble in place. How divine. Burch laid her scene at the Museum of Modern Art, where her contemporary looks felt right at home amongst the pieces by world-renowned creatives in their own right. The designer continued her commitment to sportswear, including a sweatpant that is decidedly un-sweatpant-like by any traditional means (rich velvet, paired with an elegant bag). Officewear entered the fray, of course, with looks that challenge the normal silhouettes of shirting and skirts with brand signatures, among them unexpected draping, asymmetric cuts, and playful fabric manipulations.
Coach
Whimsy bookended the looks at Coach this season. We’ll begin with spectacles of the neon variety, which marched down the runway perched on the eyes of several models, culminating in a rainbow’s worth of shades once the finale had been walked. Coach, and designer Stuart Vevers, have looked to the larger trend cycle for oversized silhouettes in jeans and formal pants, belts that swung and swayed loosely as models walked the runway, and long trench coats that just about grazed the floor in their sweeping hems. The whimsical, playful element of the collection was rounded out by beady-eyed footwear, that is, plush bears and other animals that either made up the entire shoe, or were tacked on as a particularly head-turning creative element. These dramatic proportions and unorthodox elements lent the collection a sense of energized movement, reinforcing Vevers’ knack for blending practicality with fantasy.
Calvin Klein
It’s hard to design one’s first collection for a storied house, it must be said. What Veronica Leoni has done in her inaugural showing for Calvin Klein is give audiences a taste of the stylistic offerings she intends to invest in as creative director. She spoke of sex – evident in the styling of chest-baring blazers, a low-cut salmon frock, and the playful swoosh of a sheer, white midi skirt. She spoke of retaining brand codes – evident in the office-forward homage to dress shirts, slacks, and formal shoes that are equal-parts classic as they are evidently well-crafted. To be sure, room for growth and individuality was weighing repeatedly in post-show conversations, but only time (and future collections) can truly solidify Leoni’s trajectory and creative ethos at the great American brand.
Carolina Herrera
Wes Gordon’s Carolina Herrera embarked on its AW25 adventure with Lulu Tenney at the fore, sheer black turtleneck, oversized belt of deep blue and rose appliqué, and skin-hugging black trousers setting the scene. The brand continued the trend this season of sky-high shows – hosting guests on the 48th floor of the Solow Building off of Central Park. Florals, a hallmark, entered the mix in golden fixtures across several looks, patterned coats and evening dresses, as well as a sculptural rose affixed to the front of a turquoise frock. Gordon knows how to run the gamut between elegant down the runway in one instance, before releasing an array of gowns tumbling with indulgent trains of fabric (baby blue, hot pink, and emerald green). His interpretation of Herrera continues to embrace grandeur, proving that elegance, when done right, is always in season.
Altuzarra
It wouldn’t be an Altuzarra show without the designer’s children rushing toward him during his final walk. This sweet, tender moment underscored a selection of offerings presented at the brand’s headquarters, where Joseph Altuzarra once again demonstrated his fluency in refined, thoughtful design. Techniques the designer has perfected and continues to build on — strappy accents, a language of versatility that feels at once entirely original as it does broadly applicable to a variety of women (the office-forward executive, the film heroine, and the art dealer come to mind). This season’s suggested reading of choice, Wuthering Heights, extended the book-giving tradition. Emily Brontë’s tale of passion and resilience felt like a fitting companion to a collection that embraced romance with a sharp, intelligent edge — clothing designed not just to be worn, but to be lived in, with stories of its own to tell.
photography. Isidore Montag (Coach), Altuzarra, Carolina Herrera, Calvin Klein, Christian Cowan, Tory Burch
words. Sam Falb