bringing the 70s back | H&M Studio S/S 24

full look. H&M Studio S/S24 Collection
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full look. H&M Studio S/S24 Collection

The 1970s were a vibrant and eclectic decade for fashion, marked by a mix of diverse styles that reflected the cultural shifts and social movements of the time. From boho chic, disco fever, denim and beyond, the fashion of the 1970s was characterized by a sense of experimentation, individualism, and self-expression. For their S/S24 collection, H&M Studio brings the nods from the ’70s to help usher in Spring and Summer in style.

Helping people build a modern and timeless wardrobe was the goal for Ann-Sofie Johansson, creative advisor and head of design womenswear at H&M, and her team. Using the same effervescent essence of the ’70s, the team leaned into the zeitgeist of the era for inspiration — particularly thinking about a 1970s musician on the road who curates a wardrobe with pieces she picks up while on tour.

To learn more about the collection’s inspiration, Schön! chats with Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s creative advisor and head of design womenswear, to discuss the inspiration behind the new collection, what intrigued the team about the 1970s, and more.

full look. H&M Studio S/S24 Collection
opposite
full look. H&M Studio S/S24 Collection

What were the main inspirations behind H&M Studio new spring/summer collection, particularly the emphasis on relaxed 70s clothing?

For S/S24, we were thinking about being on the road, travelling somewhere new, freeing your mind and getting away from it all. We talked a bit about this character of a 1970s musician on tour, setting off with items she has borrowed from friends and old-favourite pieces she wears year after year, stopping at a thrift store on the road and picking up a couple of special pieces, adapting what she has and using a necklace as a belt – that sense of creativity. Overall, we wanted to capture a free-spirited mood of freedom with clothes that felt relaxed and easy to wear in lots of different ways.

Can you elaborate on the key design elements and aesthetic choices that reflect the relaxed vibe of the 70s in this collection?

We were thinking less about the more obvious elements of 1970s style – the disco flares and the flower power – and more about capturing the subtle mood of freedom and relaxation that this era ushered in, in terms of silhouettes being less restricted and fabrics being more comfortable. The silhouette is long and lean, and the individual pieces have been designed as always with versatility in mind. There’s a vibrant mix of roomy tailoring and loose denim pieces alongside languid dresses. Then there are some beautiful leather looks: an edge-to-edge leather coat in dusty blue, a leather shorts-and-shirt set which I love, and a snakeskin-printed mini dress, as well as some attitudinal accessories.

full look. H&M Studio S/S24 Collection
opposite
full look. H&M Studio S/S24 Collection

What specific materials and colour palettes did you prioritize to capture the essence of 70s fashion in a contemporary way?

The colour palette was influenced heavily by the desert and the skies – we wanted to capture that feeling of wide-open spaces, and infinite possibilities. In terms of materials, our focus with H&M Studio is always to have high-quality compositions that are durable and will stand the test of time, including chrome-free leather, premium wool, and organic cotton.

Were there any particular fashion icons or cultural references from the 70s that heavily influenced the design process for this collection?

It was less about individual icons and more about a general mood of free-spirited style.

In terms of silhouettes and cuts, how did you balance between the loose, flowy styles characteristic of the 70s and the more tailored, structured preferences of modern consumers?

We always try to have a broad range of shapes and styles in each collection to suit as many of our customers as possible. We wanted to preserve a contrast between gently oversized tailoring – the honey-coloured mannish overcoat, the beige suit – and loose-fitting, rhinestone-speckled cotton pieces, as well as the more feminine pieces that hug the body, such as the burnt-orange maxi dress. The red thread running through everything was the feeling of freedom, presented in a modern, fashion-forward way for our customers.