The sun radiates over the lush Jardin au Palais Royal, the location for On Aura Tout Vu’s Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2013/2014 runway show. Colourful guests file into the garden while birds sing overhead, almost in tune with the melodic piano of Ludovico Einaudi’s “Walk” flowing from the speakers.
As if the scene couldn’t get any sweeter, the fashion house’s newest collection does. It revolves around the colour spectrum and focuses on the multiple significances of each hue. On Aura Tout Vu’s runway show opens with a vibrant mustard bell shaped number with full sleeves. Yellow Plexiglas crystals line the inside of the shoulders, with matching dangling earrings topped with a spiky visor. The colour yellow, according to cofounders and designers André de sà Pessoa, Livia Stoianova, and Yassen Samouilov, stands for enthusiasm, success, and power.
While this opening piece commands attention, the evolution of the collection entices us even more. From organic greens for renewal and growth to a surprising blue one-sleeved jacket with a crystal-crusted strap, this season’s haute couture assortment delivers large lapels and tailored jackets. Like mouldable minerals from our wildest imagination, Plexiglas is always featured on the shoulders or buttons of the pieces. In total, 50 square meters of Plexiglas was used in embroidery work for the couture collection. The acrylic glass was also transformed to make exciting headpieces and pendulum earrings.
As the music quickly changes to will.i.am’s “Bang Bang,” so does the collection. Black makes its way into the spectacle in the shape of a shimmering corset and studded shorts. The collection becomes more daring as crystals are utilized in new ways, seen in the formation of a single glimmering string down the back of a dress. Collars are exaggerated and motorcycle gloves are glammed with gems.
In partnerships with Kopenhagen Fur and Swisstulle, On Aura Tout Vu showcases a fiery fur coat and a selection of bright evening gowns. The dresses are ruched in flattering ways to accentuate peek-a-boo cut outs and high slits as “Crazy in Love” by Emeli Sande from The Great Gatsby Soundtrack echoes in the garden.
The final look of any haute couture spectacle is the bride, and On Aura Tout Vu’s doesn’t fall short. Well, the dress itself is technically cut short, but the extraordinary craftsmanship of Plexiglas makes this bride untouchably exquisite. Accessorized with a bold collar of the lightweight material and finished with a veil, the wedding dress feels fresh and somehow lighter than air.
Words / Sheri Chiu
Follow her on twitter @schiuonthis