Leonard Paris
The seventh day of Paris Fashion Week showcased stunning uses of warm patterns and brilliant colours. From Leonard Paris’ floral prints manipulated in refreshing ways to Wunderkind’s eccentric textile mix-match, this day was visually stimulating. We also visited the universes of Elie Saab and Avelon.
This season, Creative Director Yiqing Yin tapped into Leonard Paris’ heritage and dug out vibrant floral prints from the 1960s and ‘70s. Long, breezy silhouettes in the forms of flowery jumpsuits, overalls, and dresses slid down the runway. Yin injected doses of bright, painterly colours of fuchsia, hot orange, and teal in meticulously hand-worked jackets and tailored trousers. Her signature pleating and ruching gave rise to feminine shapes of buds unfolding into exquisite flowers. There were touches of swimwear in this collection consisting of bikini tops paired with silk trousers or asymmetrical garments matched with high waisted bottoms. Flower sketch prints made their appearance, along with a denim patchwork finale that left an impression of a work in progress, as if these pieces jumped from the sketchbook onto the runway.
Elie Saab
This season, Elie Saab dived into the deep blue and searched for hidden treasure. This was reflected in the sounds of waves splashing as the models marched down the runway in draped silhouettes. Fresh, print dresses resembled a school of fish swimming in the sea and was constructed in a way that revealed glistening legs. Floor-length dresses dip-dyed in bold colours of blue, orange and salmon pink danced down the runway as Saab’s signature silhouette swayed from side-to-side in its light silky texture. Another striking look was a ‘70s inspired jumpsuit with flare cuffs in complete black lace that hugged the skin tightly. Saab’s collection was a decadent array of luxurious gowns true to his timeless, elegant style.
Avelon
It was a fusion of tribalism and futurism at the Avelon Spring 2015 Show. The latest collection from the Central Saint Martin’s graduate took inspiration from photographer Jimmy Nelson and his book Before They Pass Away – driving a galactic tribeswoman theme that evoked memories of the film Avatar – models exited the French doors in reptilian leathers of perfect whites, black and blood red. The motif of animal skin proved to be a viciously wild in a sliced-up red leather trouser, but futuristic with parkas in spacey whites. Sports-luxe also made an appearance with a Number 1O slogan t-shirt tucked into leather beige trousers, ruffle-pleated at the waist. The final look, a sleeveless floor-length gown dripping black leather tassels, snapped the collection back to its core; an acceptance of our tribal forefathers paired with an anticipation for the future world.
Words / Sheri Chiu, Benjamin Fitzgerald and Keanoush Zargham
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