ethereal shift | steven passaro aw26

Steven Passaro is having a breakthrough (not a breakdown), and the French architect-turned-designer wants you to know the difference. In fact, “we must break to let the light in” has become his mantra this season. The official collection title is “Ethereal Shift,” if that’s any indicator of his current state of mind. A self-described “delicate” ready-to-wear and bespoke designer, it’s apparent, behind that boyish grin, is a well of emotions sewn into every stitch. 

Emotion you can feel, even scrolling through his lookbook. The model’s fragile gaze is soft, their focus is precise. The background is laid bare, but grounded in the sheen of polished cement. Sometimes a chukka boot sits on a leather-studded chair, or a motorcycle boot is propped next to a marble sculpture. Sometimes it’s just a chair, its back pointed brutally upwards. Presenting the viewer with the question: Which is the work of art?  

Upon visiting his showroom, where he presented his fall/winter collection, Passaro explained that he was inspired by his daily process. “I became deeply aware of repetition and gesture. Dressing turned into a ritual, a way to reconnect with intention,” he said. “Each layer became a step toward transformation, allowing the body and the garment to shift together,” he added. 

Steven Passaro’s work is not flashy, audacious, or loud, but simply studied. Tailored lapels rise, and materials are approached as living elements in soft-to-touch wools. Flowing textiles and structured fabrics exist in subtle tension, and perhaps, most importantly, you’ll find pieces you can actually wear.

words. Malcolm Thomas