castaneda | crowns, castles & coming-of-age

What if fashion weren’t about dressing up, but about remembering who you promised to be? Not the version polished for LinkedIn or photographed for Instagram, but the self you imagined as a child, before ambition had a dress code. For Castaneda, that promise takes the shape of a castle: a five-year-old vow from designer Ivo Barraza Castaneda to his mother that one day, he’d take her to live in one.

Castaneda is still a young name in Paris fashion, founded in 2023 by Castaneda and Gautier Rouquette. But its world is already fully formed: a space where eccentric tailoring, soft accessories, and storytelling collide. Here, fantasy isn’t used to escape the real world, but to see it from a stranger, more honest angle.

Back in March, the independent brand unveiled Regismon in a room drenched in red, its orange carpet setting the stage for a dreamlike parade. Between bursts of Alexandre Desplat’s compositions for Moonrise Kingdom, Für Elise, and cheeky soundbites from Nicki Minaj, the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection unfolded like a cross between a baroque costume drama and the inner monologue of a precocious teen.

There were horned hats in houndstooth wool, bunny ears in green plaid, monkey-eared tweed caps. Classic tailoring came embroidered with biblically accurate angel eyes, while diamond-motif patchwork and hand-painted grids added texture to the brand’s ongoing fascination with analogue craft. Trousers and bermudas featured a trompe-l’œil effect mimicking ermine fur, created using upcycled cutouts of silk and wool. This season’s palette pulls from medieval jewellery, particularly, jewel tones of emerald, ruby, sapphire, and glints of gold.

It’s courtly, cartoonish, and couture all at once. Much like the set of oversized chess-piece towers surrounding the models, Castaneda’s pieces play with archetypes: silhouettes shift between soldier, jester, and adolescent rebel. Although theatrical, the looks are never frivolous. 

What might read like costume on paper feels surprisingly intimate in person. There’s something deeply autobiographical in the eccentricity, perhaps even therapeutic. Regismon reflects on the strange rituals we undertake to feel exceptional. But it also questions them, offering what the brand describes as an amnistie (an emotional pardon, of sorts) for not needing to become anything at all. Sometimes, a monster hat or a striped coat says just enough.

Operating direct-to-consumer and produced close to its Paris base, Castaneda is grounded in material consciousness as much as imagination. Fabrics are sourced from deadstock luxury suppliers in Île-de-France, with a focus on natural fibres — such as cotton, wool, silk, linen — and leathers from cow, goat, and sheep skins.

This is fashion for those who don’t dress to impress (sorry Roblox!), but to express. Castaneda speaks to people who live, as the brand puts it, “in their own world,” one where a bunny ear can be as powerful as a crown — and come September, we’ll be stepping back inside it.

Discover the collection here.

photography. Ivo Barraza Castaneda
words. Gennaro Costanzo