In the realm of haute couture, Chanel’s Fall-Winter 2024/25 Haute Couture collection has solidified the fashion house as the upper echelon of deliciously embellished and embroidered womenswear.
This morning’s runway show – which boasted a star-studded front row, including the likes of Michelle Williams, Sadie Sink, and Kiera Knightley – was held at the opulent Palais Garnier in Paris, celebrating creative freedom and foreshadowing the sumptuous scene that would later unfold. The theatrical feel of the space was amplified by French director Christophe Honoré, who transformed the auditorium into red velvet opera boxes for the show.
The opera house and its values have been intertwined with Chanel since its opening in 1875, with this collection marrying the worlds of haute couture and opera and perfectly encapsulating the Chanel woman: sophisticated, elegant, and timeless.
Vittoria Ceretti opened the show in an oversized black taffeta jacket with a ruff-like clasp at the neck. Underneath, a cream top with pearl ornamentation and a matching pair of knickers popped. The brand’s signature tweeds were the centre of attention, infused with metallic threads and heavily ornamented with sequins, bedazzled buttons, and jewels. On the surface, the simultaneously striking and overly exuberant designs felt almost too busy. Instead, it allowed Chanel to flaunt their attention to detail and standout craftsmanship. In stark contrast to the vibrant tweed suits, dresses, and coats, red, mint, and cream taffeta cape-like jackets floated effortlessly down the runway, entrancing the crowd with the alluring convergence of harsh and soft lines.
Nodding to the French fashion house’s rich history in flattering but functional garments, lacquered jerseys, crisp velvets, and layers of tulle lent themselves to Chanel’s incorporation of volume and structure. A breathtaking melange of hair bows and puff sleeves felt playful and were paired with structured trousers and shorts, creating an interesting juxtaposition.
The Chanel bride appeared as if she’d just stepped out of the ‘80s, with billowing puff sleeves and an even bigger skirt working in tandem with a figure-hugging flower-embellished bodice. The ruffled detailing at the sleeves and shoulder seams – not to mention the pieces of tulle escaping from the waistband – emphasised the brand’s meticulousness and closed the show with a bang.
images. CHANEL
words. Amber Louise
