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loewe aw25 | transformative opulence

On the eve of Loewe‘s autumn showcase, Jonathan Anderson took to his personal Instagram, sharing a montage celebrating his 11-year journey as the brand’s creative director, from glimpses of the runway to Rihanna’s unforgettable Super Bowl appearance to playful snippets of Jennifer Coolidge and other celebrities deliberately mispronouncing the label’s name. It seems like Loewe is on the precipice of transformation and the AW collection represented that. Crowds of fans gathered behind barricades outside the venue on Rue de l’Université — the former residence of the legendary Karl Lagerfeld. Inside, the space was transformed into an exhibition-like setting where art pieces, design objects, and handcrafted works seamlessly coexisted with Loewe’s women’s and men’s collections, all displayed on mannequins.

Every corner of the 18th-century mansion’s lavish rooms reflected Anderson’s distinctive design ethos and cultural acumen. The presentation embraced the surreal, with colossal sculptures of tomatoes, an apple, and a pumpkin by Anthea Hamilton punctuating the 17 opulent chambers. The still-life format suited this particular collection, which leaned into sculptural silhouettes. Menswear featured wind-swept peacoats crafted from molded leather, a trapeze-shaped field jacket, and baseball T-shirts reimagined as capes, their raglan sleeves dramatically oversized. The softer side of menswear emerged in tartan mohair coats with scarf-like sleeves and knitted suits adorned with striped lapels — a nod to David Hockney’s artistic flair — all casually draped over vintage chairs.

For womenswear, the collection offered sleek leather coats accented with cotton shirting bibs, fluid jersey gowns channeling the Roaring ’20s, and cocktail dresses bursting with color, constructed from sweeping strands of beaded organza reminiscent of glowing fiber-optic threads. Craftsmanship took center stage, with Josef Albers’ “Homage to the Square” paintings meticulously translated into pleated skirts, dresses, and Loewe’s iconic Flamenco, Squeeze, and Amazona bags. Adding to the visual intrigue, printed cellophane was finely shredded into fringe and layered over a houndstooth robe coat, creating a shimmering, three-dimensional effect.

The experience concluded with a preview of Loewe’s “Crafted World” exhibition, set to open in Tokyo later this month following its successful debut in Shanghai in early 2024.

 

See the full collection at loewe.com.