interview | chef frederick forster

If Café Kitsuné’s original London outpost in Belgravia is the “understated, elegant, discreet and poised” character, its new sibling is the complete opposite. According to Johanna Lellouche, General Deputy Director of Kitsuné Group, the brand’s new Covent Garden location, which opened its doors in August, is “the lively friend: expressive, curious and always on the move”.

The French-Japanese lifestyle brand has landed at 55 Monmouth Street, a move Lellouche explains was a natural fit. “We’re drawn to places with strong cultural energy,” she says. “Covent Garden is vibrant, creative, constantly alive – it’s the perfect backdrop for us.”

The 530 sq.ft destination is a cosy, 15-seat haven set over two floors. The design language, which Lellouche says is key to the brand’s 35 locations worldwide, is an “effortless blend of Parisian elegance and Japanese simplicity, with a London edge”. The space features warm wood, a counter that echoes the brand’s Beijing café and curated artwork from the French creative duo Sacrée Frangine to give the space its soul.

It’s a café designed to be a flexible refuge from the area’s wonderful chaos. “I hope guests feel a cosy atmosphere,” Lellouche says. “It’s a place to slow down and enjoy a good coffee. You can grab your drink to go and wander through Covent Garden, or sit downstairs in our intimate space for a quiet break away from the bustle.”

The main draw, of course, is the menu, which expertly merges French patisserie with Japanese flavour profiles. As a pioneer of matcha in Paris since 2014, the brand’s expertise is on full display. The menu features its cult-status Fox Cookies alongside matcha financiers and hazelnut miso cookies. 

When asked for her personal favourite, Lellouche admits her loyalty is split. “The Fox Cookie is definitely a star!” she says. “I love anything matcha; our matcha coconut latte is a personal favourite and I can’t resist the matcha cookie.” This is all served alongside specials like Iced Strawberry Matcha Lattes and Yuzu & Honey drinks.

This new opening is the latest step in a careful global expansion that includes bars in New York, Tokyo and even a restaurant and day club in Bali. It’s a key part of the Maison Kitsuné ecosystem, which has been in the works since 2002. It all started with a perfect ‘Paris-meets-Tokyo’ partnership: Gildas Loaëc, the artistic director and manager for none other than Daft Punk, brought the unimpeachable French electronic vibes, while Masaya Kuroki, a Japanese-born architect, brought a precise, minimalist aesthetic.

They started Kitsuné Musique first, building their cultural credibility with a series of now-legendary ‘Kitsuné Maison’ compilation albums that launched artists like Phoenix and Digitalism. It wasn’t until 2005 that the fashion line, Maison Kitsuné, officially dropped. While other brands were loud, Kitsuné was preppy, sharp and clean. It was the anti-merch: classic cardigans, perfect oxfords and tailored staples, all branded with a subtle, mischievous fox logo.

It all links back to the name. ‘Kitsuné’ is the Japanese word for fox, a mythical creature famous for having many faces and the ability to change its appearance. This was the core concept from day one: a single brand that could be a music label, a fashion house and, as this new Covent Garden café proves, a global lifestyle destination.

photography. courtesy of Café Kitsuné
words. Gennaro Costanzo

When OKA’s founder Maxim Streletzki found himself at Yamataro – a celebrated shop in the Zoshigaya neighbourhood known for its generous, expertly formed rice balls and its lineage from the legendary Onigiri Bongo – he experienced a moment of unadorned perfection. This was the idea he brought back to Berlin, a city that loves bold statements, and presented to Chef Kaoru Iriyama.

For centuries, the humble onigiri has been Japan’s beloved comfort food, representing a pocket-sized snack of affection. A perfect onigiri consists of three simple components: white rice, a savoury filling and a wrapping of nori (seaweed). Now, OKA is bringing this vision to the German capital, highlighting the artistry behind each rice ball. 

Iriyama is a culinary professional engaged in the highest ranks of Japanese haute cuisine, a student of the rigorous Kaiseki master Hirohisa Koyama. As a traditional Japanese cuisine style deeply rooted in Buddhist philosophy, Kaiseki teaches that true beauty is born from humility.

To the outside eye, asking a Kaiseki-trained chef to make simple onigiri might seem like asking a concert pianist to play scales. But for Iriyama, it was the ultimate application of her craft. The most difficult, subtle art she learned was a profound philosophy of control.

“From my training in Kaiseki cuisine, I learned above all to act with respect towards the ingredients, towards others and towards nature. And to discipline one’s own ego,” Iriyama explains. “In Kaiseki, the ingredient is always at the centre, not the chef. Our role is to bring out the natural beauty and intrinsic flavour of each ingredient, not to showcase our own skills. We are simply accompanying what nature has already created.”

This principle is the soul of their small restaurant on Oranienburgerstraße – and Berlin’s first Onigiri Chef’s Table. Iriyama actively resists the “tempting” urge to impress. You will not find the onigiri served on decorative porcelain. Instead, they arrive on a plain Japanese bamboo tray, a decision made to “keep the focus where it belongs: on the rice itself.”

This philosophical commitment, however, must survive in the harsh reality of Berlin’s current gastronomic climate. Iriyama is keenly aware that opening a premium concept built on imported ingredients while costs are high and consumers are cautious is a delicate act. 

Their strategy, she reveals, is as focused as their food. “To still maintain the quality we insist on, we’ve deliberately kept our menu lean and focused entirely on onigiri. No wide-ranging offer like ramen or sushi, but a tightly considered concept.” This, combined with high-efficiency rice washing and cooking machines imported from Japan, allows them to operate without compromising on the craft that defines them.

Of course, Iriyama knows that many Berliners will initially misunderstand the concept. “We actually encounter that little misunderstanding almost every day and that’s perfectly fine,” she says with patience. “Japan is far away, and cultural nuances take time to be understood.” 

Instead of frustration, she sees these moments as an opportunity to connect. When a guest asks for soy sauce (a sushi condiment, not an onigiri one), the team gently explains the difference. When they ask for chopsticks, Iriyama offers them, but also shares the true context: “Onigiri is Japan’s version of a sandwich, a warm, handmade snack, a small piece of everyday Japanese culture meant to be held and enjoyed by hand. Guests love this story. It creates a beautiful moment.”

And although they don’t plan to have an exclusive German filling (yet), they’re always aiming to find thoughtful ways to integrate local flavours into their onigiris.

This desire to reframe Japanese culture is at the very heart of OKA’s design. Iriyama was determined to escape the tired visual language often forced upon Japanese restaurants. “I feel deeply grateful that Japanese food culture is so appreciated, yet this interest is often reduced to clichés: sakura blossoms, zen or anime. I wanted to free Japanese food culture from those stereotypes.” In Berlin, a city “open to the new,” OKA’s contemporary space, designed by Brinkworth, proves that modernity can harmonise beautifully with tradition. It’s a space where every member of the all-Japanese team can share the “connection, care and quiet love” inherent in the food, with pride.

Iriyama’s ambition is not for applause, but for a meaningful exchange. Her hope is that guests feel a sense of Japanese hospitality, or as she describes it, “warm but discreet, never intrusive and always attentive.”

photography. courtesy of Robert Rieger
words. Gennaro Costanzo

Alyssa Gangeri has crafted a career as layered as the pastries she creates. A classically trained pastry chef and Culinary Institute of America alumna, her path spans Michelin-starred kitchens, luxury resorts, celebrity events, and entrepreneurial ventures — all rooted in a love of baking she first discovered in her Italian-American family kitchen.

After a celiac diagnosis in 2017, Gangeri reimagined her craft, developing gluten-free breads, laminated pastries, and desserts that honour taste and texture while accommodating her dietary needs. “Each recipe feels like a milestone,” she says. “Living with celiac has reshaped my approach to baking, hospitality, and creativity. Four years later, she became the creative force behind The Butter Milk Ranch, Nashville’s celebrated brunch destination. Here is where Gangeri blurs the lines between sweet and savoury with creations like their signature Breakfast Cubes and “C’reuben” sandwich, while maintaining meticulous attention to detail. If you’re lucky enough to get a reservation (the restaurant is so popular, walk-ins usually require a two-hour wait on the weekends), you’ll be lucky enough to indulge in Gangeri’s creations. 

For Gangeri, travel has always been a passport to inspiration. From Hong Kong’s delicate pastries to Brazil’s vibrant fruits and tapioca-based desserts, to Sweden’s kannebulle and semla, every country leaves an imprint on her craft. Yet it was Cape Cod, her family’s kitchen, and early professional experiences at Ocean Edge Resort that gave her the first taste of pastry as both an art and a discipline. Even now, Italian cookies like pignoli, cuccidati, and regina seed cookies carry the flavour of her childhood, bridging past and present with every bite. 

Every dish at The Butter Milk Ranch is a stamp on her passport — a marker of her journey, her heritage, and her passion for pastry. For Schön!’s passport series, which explores the cities, restaurants, museums, and travel anecdotes that have left their mark (or stamp), we sit down with Alyssa Gangeri to chat about the places that left a mark.

What does a typical day look like for you at Butter Milk Ranch?

A typical day at The Butter Milk Ranch is a mix of hands-on work, leadership, and creativity. My first employee arrives at 4 a.m., and when I get in, I make sure everyone is settled and ready to start their day. I try to grab a coffee as quickly as possible because, honestly, coffee makes everything easier! I’ve built an incredible team, which has allowed me to transition into more of a logistics and leadership role so the Ranch can run smoothly whether I’m in the building or not. My main focus in the mornings is ensuring everyone is present, prepared, and set up for success.

I check in with our front-of-house managers to see how the team is doing, address any callouts or issues, and then touch base with the culinary and pastry teams to review what they’re working on and discuss any staffing needs. From there, I catch up on emails, catering requests, and other communications that need my attention. Later, I meet with management to brainstorm new menu items or retail offerings. When I can, I carve out time to get creative and work on independent projects, like our partnership with the American Cancer Society for Men Wear Pink. For October, we’re developing a custom pink croissant with proceeds going to support the cause, which is always incredibly rewarding.

Throughout the day, I balance operations, creativity, and guest experience, making sure every detail, from our pastries to our service, reflects the care and passion we put into The Butter Milk Ranch.

When you’re not in the kitchen, how do you like to spend your time?

When I’m not in the kitchen, I love spending time outdoors. I’ve been immersed in the kitchen life since I was 16, and I’ve learned how important it is to step outside, ground yourself in nature, and simply breathe in the fresh air. Going on walks is both therapeutic and inspiring for me, and some of my best ideas come during these moments. A change of scenery and pace helps a fast-moving brain like mine slow down and gain a new perspective.

That said, I’m also somewhat of an overachiever, so even outside the kitchen, I’m often working on projects related to my craft. I serve as the Pastry Chef for Carpigiani North America, which allows me to connect with chefs around the world and help make their businesses more efficient and effective with new technology. I’m also a four-time published author — soon to be five, once I carve out the time! I’m always exploring new techniques, reading, and educating myself because I strive to grow both inside and outside of the kitchen.

If your passport had a stamp for every place that shaped your baking journey, which stamps would we see first?

My first love is definitely baking and pastry, but my second is travel. I’ve been fortunate to visit over 35 countries, and many of them have shaped my baking journey. Hong Kong stands out for the intricacies of Asian pastries — their beauty and unique flavour profiles continue to inspire my pastry creations. I also fell in love with Brazil’s food scene, especially the fruits that are so vibrant and flavorful, and the creative use of tapioca root starch in dishes like pão de queijo and dadinho de tapioca. Exploring new savoury and sweet ingredients always opens the door to possibilities, particularly those that accommodate food allergies.

Sweden is another place that has left a lasting impression on me. Their signature pastries, kannebulle and semla, are some of my all-time favourites. I don’t travel to replicate ideas, but to find inspiration in techniques and flavours that I can incorporate into my own work and expand my creative horizons.

Which city or kitchen gave you your “first taste” of professional pastry work?

My first taste of professional pastry work was in Brewster, Massachusetts, on Cape Cod — a place that holds a very special place in my heart. I grew up spending summers at my grandparents’ house, and my passion for pastry began in their kitchen, learning to bake with my grandmother. When it came time to choose an externship site while studying at the Culinary Institute of America, it was a natural choice to accept a position at Ocean Edge Resort and Golf Club on Cape Cod.

That experience hooked me immediately. I loved everything about it, from preparing desserts for private beach parties to executing four weddings in a single weekend. Else Rhodes, my Pastry Chef at the time, took me under her wing and gave me the tools I needed to succeed. I am forever grateful for her guidance, and I can still close my eyes and picture being back on that property, creating incredible pastries and learning from her every day.

Sometimes it’s not the place that shapes you, but the people. The support system I had, both professionally and personally, is something I will be forever grateful for because it truly put me on a trajectory I could have never imagined.

What dessert or pastry feels like a passport back to your childhood on Cape Cod?

The desserts that take me back to my childhood on Cape Cod are traditional Italian cookies. We love all cookies, but traditional Italian cookies are especially beloved in our family — all the flavours, shapes, and textures hold a special place in our hearts. My grandfather wasn’t a huge sweet tooth, but Italian cookies were like the yellow brick road to his heart. Some of my favourites, and those that were most important in our family, are regina seed cookies, pignoli cookies, and cuccidati cookies. Even before I became a professional pastry chef, it was important to my grandparents that I learned these recipes and understood their significance in our family heritage.

That passion for these cookies has carried on to this day. My staff here in Nashville were first introduced to pignoli cookies through me, and they know that every Christmas I make them and ship them to my grandfather to ensure he has his favourite cookies. Over time, my team has become fans as well, and now we always make extra to share and celebrate together. For me, this goes back to the idea that food can evoke emotion. These cookies will always evoke emotion for me, and it was important to learn these family recipes because it wasn’t just that they were delicious — it was the joy and connection they brought to my family when they were made.

If Butter Milk Ranch had its own passport stamp, what would it look like?

If The Butter Milk Ranch had its own passport stamp, it would definitely feature our BMR logo paired with a croissant. We love calling it BMR for short, and our logo reminds me a little of a brand that a cow might wear, which fits perfectly with our ‘home ranch’ feel. Butter and milk are at the heart of everything we make, so the logo reflects both our name and our craft. I think a BMR croissant stamp would be a highly coveted one — a stamp that everyone would want in their passport!

Where do you still dream of getting a new stamp — a city, restaurant, or experience you’d love to explore next?

Japan, Japan, Japan! I fell in love with Southeast Asia and Hong Kong years ago, and the moment I left, I knew Japan had to be at the top of my list. The culture, the attention to detail in every aspect of food, from preparation to execution, and the overall dining experience are unlike anywhere else. Their creativity extends to restaurant design, presentation, and every level of guest experience — no stone is left unturned.

I watched the documentary ‘Jiro Dreams of Sushi’, about a Michelin-starred restaurant in a subway station in Japan, which is known for the best sushi in the world because of their dedication to craft, hand-selected fresh fish, precise preparation, and exceptional dining experience. I was fortunate enough to dine at Sushi Nakazawa in Manhattan, one of Jiro’s protégés, and it was a surreal experience — still the best sushi I’ve ever had. I know that going to Japan and dining with Jiro in the subway will completely exceed my expectations, and I can confidently say that. From a pastry perspective, Japan is endlessly inspiring, and I want to immerse myself in their world of creativity to come away with new skills, fresh ideas, and a level of open-mindedness I didn’t know existed.

After your celiac diagnosis, how did you transform your approach to pastry, and which creations feel like milestones in that journey?

This is a deeply personal and ongoing journey for me. When I was diagnosed with celiac disease, it felt like a death sentence as a pastry chef. I had dedicated my life to mastering my craft, and then I was told that the main ingredient in almost every baked good, wheat, could seriously harm me. Accepting that reality, healing, and transforming my approach to pastry has been a multi-layered process. I pursued a degree in health and wellness at Cornell University to better understand how food impacts the body, and I began researching and developing gluten-free recipes from scratch to mirror or even surpass the flavour and texture of my pre-existing creations.

Every gluten-free recipe I work on feels like a milestone, because when you finally tweak a formula to perfection and it tastes like it contains gluten, that is the true measure of success. One milestone that stands out for me is bread. Mimicking gluten development in bread crumb and structure is extremely challenging. During a period of gluten withdrawal, I became obsessed with figuring it out. I started working on a sourdough, diving deep into the science of wheat, GMO wheat, and heritage wheat. I discovered Einkorn flour, a heritage wheat in the U.S. with naturally lower gluten levels, and developed a method to lactoferment it long enough to break down the gliadin protein, which causes harm to celiac patients.

Through perseverance, dedication to my craft, and a deep desire to enjoy bread again, I was able to bake a loaf that I could eat without any side effects. That experience was amazing and profoundly rewarding, a perfect example of how baking is truly a science. Living with celiac disease comes with unique challenges, and my symptoms are severe. Cross-contamination or accidental gluten exposure can result in extreme neurological effects, such as temporary loss of speech, loss of vision, and numbness in my extremities. Dining out can be anxiety-inducing, and I now eat to live rather than live to eat, as I once did.

This journey has transformed not only my approach to pastry but also how I lead my team and care for our guests. I rely on trusted colleagues to give honest feedback on both traditional and gluten-free products, sometimes even testing gluten-free recipes on them without revealing it, to ensure the quality matches or exceeds expectations. Each milestone, whether it is a laminated pastry, dessert, or bread, represents progress. This work is ongoing, and I continue to evolve every day, not only for myself but also to create a safe, thoughtful, and elevated dining experience for everyone who visits The Butter Milk Ranch.

Nashville has a unique food and cultural scene — how has being based there shaped the identity of Butter Milk Ranch and your approach to pastry?

I have been fortunate to live all around the United States, and every city and state has its own distinct features and styles. Moving from Manhattan to Nashville was a very large transition, but Nashville welcomed me with open arms and fully supported The Butter Milk Ranch vision from the start. Something I learned from working under incredible chefs and restaurateurs is that not every restaurant or hotel you work for will mimic your personal style. Your role is to use your talent to create dishes and experiences that align with that particular concept. The beauty of Butter Milk Ranch is that, for the first time, it truly reflects my own style and vision, just with a southern touch.

We have embraced southern classics and elevated them in unique ways, drawing inspiration from old southern cookbooks to the vintage 1940s kitchen mixers displayed alongside our plants. My goal was for guests to feel at home the moment they walked in, immersed not only in incredible food, pastries, and beverages, but also in the ambiance. From the plants to the midcentury modern design of the building to the way the sunlight pours in, every detail was chosen to create an experience that feels warm and personal.

That same philosophy shows up in our pastries. One of our top sellers, the Salted Honey Butter Croissant, takes the southern obsession with honey butter and twists it. Instead of pairing it with biscuits as you might expect, we source local honey, create the perfect balance of salty, sweet, and buttery, and drench it over a perfectly flaky croissant. It has been one of our most-loved pastries for years, and I don’t think it will ever leave the menu. To me, it represents what we love most about being in Nashville: taking beloved southern flavours and transforming them into something new. That is the fun part for my team.

Food evokes emotion, and I wanted that to carry through every element, from our décor to our packaging. Nashville has become such a vibrant tourist destination, and I am proud that The Butter Milk Ranch has grown into one of the places both locals and visitors want to experience. It is my happy place, and I wanted to share that feeling with the world, one pastry at a time!

Visit The Butter Milk Ranch in Nashville and check them out on Instagram.

photography. Southern Social
words. Kelsey Barnes