Schön! alive | change of flavour

Raymond Blance OBE.
and Rebecca Boast
Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons.
Church Rd, Great Milton
Oxford, United Kingdom
belmond.com

Once upon a time, a young and ambitious chef was flicking through the pages of a magazine. Inside, he spotted an advertisement for an Oxfordshire manor house with extensive grounds. Although he had no means to buy it, he drove there all the same and knocked on the door.

Fast forward forty years, and the once-dilapidated country pile is now Belmond Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons, an exquisite 5-star hotel housing a world-class restaurant. But how did this come to pass? To learn, Schön! alive must once again turn back the clock.

Once upon a time, a young boy lived in the French countryside with his parents and four siblings. As it was not long after World War II, resources were limited for humble folk like them, but this family was resourceful. The boy’s father taught him how to grow fruit, vegetables and herbs and how to forage and hunt in the local woods, sketching for him a treasure map of where to locate the best ingredients. The boy’s mother showed him how to cook using this produce and every day, they ate delicious, healthy food.

When the boy was a teenager, he went for a walk and, while contemplating his future, happened to pass by the fine dining restaurant of a local hotel. He was instantly mesmerised by the fluid dance of the waiters as they flambéed Crêpes Suzette. In this moment, he decided that this was where he belonged. He secured a job as a cleaner, graduating to the dishwasher and then waiter, excelling in each role – but his suggestions for the chef resulted in his dismissal, a smack in the face with a copper pan and a broken jaw.

Undeterred, he thought he’d try his luck in Oxfordshire, where, despite speaking next to no English, he found work in a pub. When the chef quit, the young man stepped in and cooked up a storm, relying on the recipes he’d learnt from Maman Blanc all those years ago.

Before long, he had married the landlord’s daughter, and together they opened Quat’Saisons, a modest restaurant with a statue of a cockerel outside, painted in red, white and blue stripes, just in case customers missed that the cuisine was French. It quickly went on to win two Michelin stars, be voted Best Restaurant in England, and wow the locals, including Lady Cromwell, the owner of an Oxfordshire manor house with extensive grounds that happened to be up for sale.

clockwise
Students select ingredients
from the grounds of Le Manoir.
photography. Mark Bassett
photography. Jason Ingram
photography. David Griffen

Unlike the burly chef who broke his jaw, Raymond Blanc has been generous sharing his skills and has trained scores of protégés who have gone on to gain their own Michelin stars, including Marco Pierre White, Michael Caines MBE, Heston Blumenthal and Bruno Loubet. He spotted Luke Selby, Le Manoir’s Executive Head Chef, when he was just 17 years old. Like Blanc, Selby is self-taught, tenacious and grew up foraging and hunting with his father. He continues the sustainable ethos of his Chef Patron and long-term mentor.

You, too, can benefit from a touch of this mentoring magic. In 1991, Blanc, who says he “always wanted to share my passion for food”, opened the Raymond Blanc Cookery School in Le Manoir’s grounds, not to train chefs, but everyday cooks like us. It’s forgivable to think that this level of cooking is above your pay grade. Sure, the restaurant at Le Manoir has two Michelin stars (as well as a Michelin green star). In fact, it’s the only hotel restaurant to have consistently maintained two Michelin stars for four decades. However, Blanc stresses that the school is suitable for all levels and “welcomes everyone, from the complete novice to an enthusiastic chef”.

There are numerous courses, including garden to plate, vegetarian and vegan options and differing levels from basic breadmaking to advanced patisserie and even courses for children. “There is nothing I like more than getting the children to cook,” Blanc tells us. We are spoilt for choice and wonder aloud where to start. “It’s a tough question. I enjoy all the courses as we have worked hard to have a good selection available,” Blanc muses. “I love bread, so our bread course is a favourite of mine. Also, the seasonal dinner party courses are excellent as guests learn to make a three-course meal using the best ingredients, and they then have a great repertoire to entertain family and friends.”

After much deliberation, we finally decide on ‘Blanc Vite’. Back in 1998, when the celebrated chef published his best-selling book ‘Blanc Vite: Fast Fresh Food from Raymond Blanc’, making quick and easy – and yet healthy and delicious – recipes at home was something of a novelty, at least in the UK. This was the era when supermarket shelves became dominated by microwave-ready meals and prepared salads that had sat in plastic bags for who knows how long, with questionable credentials when it came to sustainability and fairtrade.

“This book was very ahead of its time,” Blanc recalls. “I felt that people were not connecting their food with their health often enough, and this book really demonstrates the power of that.” If you hadn’t already guessed it from the name, seasonality is core to the menus at Belmond Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons, and this also applies to the cookery school. What you will make will depend entirely on what’s growing in the grounds. The last of the summer’s heritage tomatoes form the base for a fondue served with poached eggs for a tasty breakfast. Our tutor, chef Rebecca Boast, ditches the standard advice for poaching and shows us a method that involves far less fuss.

Cookery School Director Mark Peregrine
demonstrates how to work with spun sugar.
photography. Mark Bassett

In fact, throughout the day, Boast answers questions, offers ideas for adapting the recipes and additional tips, such as how best to freeze herbs and a quick tour of different grades of olive oil. The atmosphere is informal and convivial and, even though the emphasis here is on fast cooking, the pace feels unpressured. As a bonus, we get to eat everything we cook, accompanied with sommelier-selected wine at lunch. The tour of the grounds includes the organic gardens and greenhouses – there is also a gardening school on site – and even the falconry, where we meet the birds who keep pests at bay naturally, eliminating the need for traps and poisons.

But back to the food. The summer menu continues with a watercress soup and Maman Blanc’s heritage tomato salad, a dish in essence so simple and ubiquitous, but elevated by good quality produce and some easy, but highly effective, techniques. We decorate the salad with flowers from the garden and, voila – you have a dish that’s as pretty as a picture. We are shown how to make a pistou, a French sauce similar to pesto without the parmesan and pine nuts, but also how to prepare it so that the basil retains its vibrancy, which is not as complicated as you might think.

In fact, even though this is food that you can cook every day at home, presentation is never secondary: everything is delectable and attractive enough to serve to guests. The pan-fried salmon with champagne sauce and basil is dinner party-worthy, but in the spirit of Le Manoir’s waste reduction policies, Boast explains that we use leftover champagne, and, if that’s not something you often have to hand, well, it’s easy enough to freeze flat champagne from a party in ice cube trays and use it when you need it.

Next, Steak ‘Maman Blanc’ requires nothing but the cut itself, butter, salt and pepper and water but, my goodness, it’s superb. We round off with roast figs with blackberries and port, another impressive looking dish that requires next to no effort, which is served with possibly one of the best vanilla ice creams we’ve tasted, made from scratch in the restaurant kitchen.

Summer is long gone, but the Blanc Vite menu for the winter months might include a Hunters Breakfast of fricassee of wild mushrooms on grilled sourdough with poached eggs, or a pan-fried Loch Duart salmon with watercress and wasabi sauce. There is a Poule au Pot and a seasonal fruit crumble, but Steak ‘Maman Blanc’ also makes a welcome reappearance.

Is the course suitable for beginners? Well, it helps to have some basic cooking skills and an interest in gastronomy to best benefit from the training, but the youngest person in our group was only 14 years old and not a child protégé. She simply enjoyed cooking at home with her family. So no, you do not need to be ‘MasterChef’ level to take a lot away from this.

Presentation is never secondary at the
Raymond Blanc Cookery School.
photograhy. David Griffen.

The cookery courses are open to non-residents, but if you have the opportunity, a stay at Belmond Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons is not to be missed.

Today, the Grade II listed house and its 27.5-acre grounds accommodate guests in 32 rooms and suites, all completely unique in their design, so the ambience remains boutique and intimate. We stayed in the Lavender Suite, inspired by the fragrant paths outside.

Here, attention to detail is ramped up a notch. Guests are greeted at check in with a glass of Veuve Clicquot, the pillow menu includes organic wool and vegan options, your shoes are shined if required and the hairdryer is a Dyson of course. As well as a vintage bottle of Veuve, a glorious fruit plate from the gardens and orchards and some truly divine chocolates, there was a freshly baked lemon cake in our suite. On departure, we were presented with a goodie bag for the journey home that included handmade cookies and a jar of Le Manoir’s honey.

But it’s the continued efforts towards sustainability – in contrast to hotels that make claims that are clearly just greenwashing – that impressed us most. There are no tiny plastic packets. A little linen bag in the bathroom encourages you to take the sumptuous soap with you: a great idea because, otherwise, it just ends up in a bin. There are even take away boxes so that the gorgeous cake and fruit need not go to waste.

This ethos directly stems from Raymond Blanc’s upbringing. “Without doubt, my parents have been my greatest influence,” he confirms. “They taught us the importance of the garden and how and what to grow. My father would show us how to plant, nurture; and we worked hard. We would forage in the woods also. Then we would take what we have to Maman in the kitchen, and she would work her magic. I watched her, I listened to her; she never wasted anything.”

Dining here is, unsurprisingly, truly a treat, but guests are first invited to enjoy an aperitif in the lounge. Once seated in the restaurant, it’s tempting to gorge yourself on the impressive selection of freshly baked breads, but hold back, because you simply must leave room for what’s next. We won’t go into detail. With seasonality being key, the menu is constantly changing, but this restaurant is renowned for good reason. 

Maman Blanc lived to the ripe old age of 97, so was able to savour the successes of her son. In the gardens, amongst other sculptures, you will find a statue of the diminutive but formidable woman who taught one of the greatest chefs in the world how to cook and whose energy resulted in the fond family nickname of ‘Mother Teresa on Acid’. You might not necessarily meet him there, and he doesn’t conduct the cooking classes himself, but Monsieur Blanc is frequently at the hotel and will personally welcome guests and students when he can.

If you’re lucky, you might also be greeted by Bilbao, AKA ‘Cat Saisons’, a local kitty who has decided this esteemed establishment is a suitable home for his feline fancies. Bilbao visits the reception desk twice a day for fuss and cuddles. The breakfast and dinner services are the most likely times to encounter him.

Hyacinth Bathroom.
photography. Mattia Aquila
Botticelli Room.
photography. Mattia Aquila
Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons.
photography. Paul Wilkinson

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words. Huma Humayun
images. Courtesy of Belmond Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons

Hélène Darroze.
photography. ADN Production

On a quiet street of Paris’ famed Saint-Germain des Prés neighbourhood, a restaurant with a discreet front has now welcomed guests for 25 years. As you push open the door to Marsan par Hélène Darroze, you step into the world of one of France’s great culinary talents and one of the few women in the male-heavy line-up of Michelin-starred chefs. Given that cooking runs in Darroze’s family – she is a fourth-generation chef – one might expect her path to have been mapped out at an early age. And for Schön! alive, we had a glimpse of what it takes to become such an influential chef.

Yet, that wasn’t the case; in fact, if not for Alain Ducasse, she might never have become a chef. It was while she was working in operations at his three-Michelin-starred Le Louis XV in Monaco that he recognised her culinary talent and encouraged her to pursue it. This pivotal moment led her to take over from her father at the family’s restaurant in southwest France, where she was at the helm for four years. Then, in 1999, she moved to Paris to open what is now Marsan, originally known as Restaurant Hélène Darroze. The establishment earned its first Michelin star in 2000, followed by a second in 2003.

Since then, she opened her restaurant at The Connaught in London in 2008 (which earned three Michelin stars in 2021). A decade later, she launched JÒIA par Hélène Darroze – a more casual, bistro-style establishment – in Paris. More recently, she broadened her horizons again with the opening of Hélène Darroze à Villa La Coste in July 2021 and the beginning of a collaboration with the luxury hotel Royal Mansour in Marrakech in March 2023.

entrance
Marsan par Hélène Darroze.
4 Rue d’Assas, Paris, France
marsanhelenedarroze.com
photography. Patrice Gardera

Each space may have its own distinct identity, but she has the same feeling every time she steps into one of her establishments. “It’s not about pride. It’s about happiness,” she explains. It’s a feeling she hopes others will experience too. On that front, her outlook has always been the same: “From day one, I’ve thought of a restaurant as a space where you have to give happiness,” she says, before highlighting it’s not a task she takes lightly: “We have this big responsibility to give happiness to the guests because that is what they come for.”

Sharing is an essential part of her vision, and while food is inevitably key in that respect, the notion of sharing extends into other dimensions. On the ground floor of Marsan, for example, a long communal table invites strangers to experience a meal together. Moving upstairs into the main dining room, guests are welcomed by a wall lined with items from Darroze’s family home in the southwest, along with family photos and items from Darroze’s home in the southwest, and, from the open kitchen, the brigade greets each guest personally.

The details create a warm, inviting atmosphere, as though you’re stepping into someone’s abode. It’s an ambience which the restaurant’s managing director describes as “familial mais pas familier” – a phrase that’s hard to translate with the same succinctness in English but conveys the sense of homely warmth without slipping into excessive familiarity.

Duck Foie Gras, agastache confit, Charentes melon jam,
Jurançon wine jelly, melon Piel de Sapo + fresh almonds.
photography. Gülben Gürler

Marsan reflects Darroze’s deep connection to the region where she grew up: Les Landes. It’s the reason why, in 2019, she renamed the establishment after the town where she was born. “I wanted to pay tribute to my family and to my roots,” she says. “[They are] the foundation of my vision, of my personality, of the way I cook, the way I welcome people, the way I am.”

Food is, of course, at the heart of her world. “I just want to convey my emotions and produce an emotion in the guest,” Darroze says about her dishes. “It’s not about being technical. The technique is there to support this emotion, not the other way around.” For her, creating emotion begins with the right ingredients, which is why she prioritises the finest quality produce and has built close, long-standing relationships with her suppliers.

She mentions a friend of her nephew who grows white asparagus in Les Landes, delivering it to Marsan every two days when it’s in season, and Thomas, who has sourced fish for her in Saint-Jean-de-Luz for 25 years. “When I create a menu or a new dish, I always start from the product,” Darroze tells us. “It’s therefore linked to the season and to the relationship that you have with the producer. And, I think we now have this responsibility to use local produce. That is the skeleton of my menu.”

Landes Chicken, corn, lacquered with corn miso, cream corn,
Béarn beans, courgette + tarragon infused juice.
photography. Gülben Gürler

When we visit Marsan for its 25th anniversary, it’s the end of summer, and this philosophy is immediately evident. A thin Basque-style galette is topped with delicate slices of mackerel and a cream of chickpeas, flavoured with regional herbs like thyme and rosemary, which are finely chopped at the table for each guest.

Another dish features cep mushrooms and foie gras, a southwest specialty with its own IGP, finished with cep crumble, walnut cream and an emulsified vin jaune sauce. The staff take great care to explain dishes like these and their star ingredients, weaving a narrative that accompanies the meal. We often think of terroir as being shaped primarily by soil, climate and geography, overlooking the profound influence of people.

Nonetheless, culture, tradition and human practices also have a major influence on terroir, including through the stories that people tell about their region’s products. In that respect, Darroze has for the past 25 years played an essential role in defining and preserving the terroir of Les Landes from the open kitchen at 4 rue d’Assas in Paris.

Chef’s Table at Marsan, Paris.

Private + Main dining room at Marsan, Paris.
photography. Patrice Gardera

Here, despite being geographically separated from the region where she was born, she tells the story of its culinary history, identity and produce. It is this commitment to being herself and her loyalty to her DNA that has been the secret to her success. Darroze recounts how a three-starred Michelin chef dined at her eponymous restaurant shortly after it opened in 1999. The following day, he phoned her and told her that if she wanted to be awarded a Michelin star, she ought to change her style of cooking. The comment left her unsettled.

Coincidentally, Michelin inspectors visited her restaurant a few days later and introduced themselves to her at the end of the meal. When she relayed what the chef had said, they urged her not to change anything and to continue being herself. Reflecting on this, she says: “When you are comfortable with what you do, people like what you do. Being honest and authentic is much more important than thinking, ‘What do I have to do to achieve something?’”

As important as Michelin stars are, they are not what drives her. She says, “I cannot say it’s something I think about every day. That’s not why I cook: I cook to be myself, to express something, to give a little bit of me.”

Blue Lobster, green beans and butter, black garlic,
grated fresh hazelnut, whipped butter,
green curry + green yuzu kosho.
photography. Gülben Gürler

In Marsan’s main dining area, tables set for two are thoughtfully arranged so that both guests sit angled toward the room rather than directly facing each other. This layout creates a sense of openness, fostering a subtle dialogue among all guests while respecting individual privacy. The effect is enhanced by the acoustics: a gentle murmur of voices fills the space, but you can’t hear nearby conversations.

On this particular weekday, an elderly French couple enjoys a quiet lunch en tête-àtête while, at the neighbouring table, two men in their twenties are so absorbed in their meal that their conversation has almost taken a backseat. Some of the other guests have seemingly travelled from different corners of the world to embark on a journey of a culinary nature. Scanning the room, it is evident that 25 years after opening, Marsan par Hélène Darroze continues to appeal. For its founder, it remains the place where she truly came into her own: “It has a special place in my heart.”

Wild blueberries Izarra, Fontainebleau,
sheep bush, pastis croutons, flowers +
sprouts of tagète.
photography. Gülben Gürler

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Download your eBook.

Visit Hélène Darroze’s restaurants today at:

Marsan par Hélène Darroze.
4 Rue d’Assas, Paris, France
marsanhelenedarroze.com

Hélène Darroze at The Connaught.
Carlos Pl, Mayfair, London United Kingdom
the-connaught.co.uk

JÒIA par Hélène Darroze.
39 Rue des Jeuneurs, Paris, France
joiahelenedarroze.com

Hélène Darroze à Villa La Coste.
2750 Route de la Cride,
Le Puy-Sainte-Reparade, France
villalacoste.com

Royal Mansour.
The Leading Hotels of the World.
Rue Abou Abbas Sebti, Marrakech, Morocco
royalmansour.com

words. Ginger Rose Clark

A grandious fine-dining Michelin experience. “Tastes of Discovery” menu 2025. Dishes by Hans Neuner, at Ocean Restaurant, Restaurante Ocean

Some meals satisfy, others impress — and then there’s Ocean. Overlooking the Atlantic in Portugal’s Algarve, Ocean Restaurant isn’t just a place to eat; it’s a carefully crafted experience that stays with you.

Run by Austrian chef Hans Neuner, Ocean has earned two Michelin stars and three Repsol suns — clear recognition of its high standards. Neuner is known for his precise technique, bold flavours, and deep respect for Portuguese culinary traditions. Each dish offers a modern take on the country’s food culture, made with fresh seafood and local ingredients.

But Ocean isn’t about luxury for its own sake. Every part of the evening is thoughtfully planned. The service is smooth and attentive without being overbearing. Dishes are timed perfectly, wine pairings are introduced with care, and the atmosphere is calm and deliberate. It’s not just about eating — it’s about being present in the moment.

And then there’s the food. Each course is presented with artistic care, offering a visual surprise before pleasing the palate. A touch of seafoam here, a sculpted vegetable there with textures, temperatures, and colours come together to stimulate the senses. The dishes are seasonal, often highlighting seafood and marine plants, and showcase both creativity and technical skill.

The restaurant’s interior reflects this approach: intimate and refined, with panoramic views of the ocean. The décor features subtle, natural tones that allow both the scenery and the food to stand out. The calm ambiance, along with thoughtful details like custom tableware and gentle lighting, enhances the overall experience.

A dinner at Ocean is more than just a meal. The tasting menu unfolds like a story, and the wine pairings complement the flavours perfectly. The attentive staff guide you through the meal with warmth, making the behind-the-scenes complexity feel effortless. In a fast-paced world, Ocean offers a chance to slow down, savour, and reflect. It’s a dining experience that leaves a lasting impression.

Taste the journey of Ocean for yourself at restauranteocean.com.

words. Raoul Keil