designer. Yann Thomas
Over the last few years, the annual fashion show from HEAD Genève (Haute école d’art et de design or Geneva University of Art and Design), has become an increasingly important event for uncovering fashion’s next generation of creatives. This month, we were reminded why, as we witnessed 23 bachelor’s and 8 master’s collections take the runway – a remarkable assembly of looks that were both audacious and forward-thinking.
Each year, industry experts gather with enthusiasm for graduate fashion shows from world-leading schools, such as Central Saint Martins in London and Parsons School of Design in New York. But for institutions beyond the industry’s famed four capitals, anticipation and attention are all too often minimised. This year’s HEAD Fashion Show in Geneva was a sharp awakening on the importance of exploring our smaller, yet mighty, cities around the world, as talent from these schools proves just as dynamic and original as any.
designer. Iwan Hochstrasser
The 3,000 attendees were treated to an oval-shaped lighting installation of individual beams lighting up the evening’s runway, and taking them on an ever-changing voyage of light. Overhead rays gracefully moved the audience from morning to evening, elevating the 220 outfits observed from both a Swiss, and an increasingly international, cohort. The installation was crafted by bachelor student Alexis Lang, who won the chance to produce this year’s scenography production.
Throughout the evening, we observed an array of collections ranging from knitwear to sharp tailoring and experimental silhouettes. Highlights amongst bachelor students included Léon Narbel’s ‘Noms, prénoms’, which took home this year’s Bongenie prize. Using natural and second-hand materials, the collection highlighted his dedication to sustainable fashion. Baptiste Pons explored hybrid shapes with ‘Orthosis & Corium’, presenting a series of superbly finished garments of soft silhouettes.
The eight master’s collections presented strong storytelling and sources of inspiration. Thongchai Lerspiphopporn worked to his strengths, utilising his background in jewellery design with ‘When Hope Is Not Enough’. Every look incorporated jewellery techniques, with chainmail, basketry and weaving re-imagined into bags, dresses and hats. Vincent Delobelle presented ‘Longing or Belonging’, a grand collection of avant-garde looks that explore tension within social class. The impeccably finished garments underscored the designer’s remarkable craftsmanship.
designer. Alan Clerc
The evening was supported by an impressive international judging panel, spanning the worlds of fashion, design and press. Sarah Mower (Vogue Runway) and Patrick Scallon (Maison Margiela and Dries Van Noten) represented the UK, alongside nine other judges, including Marco Russo (Louis Vuitton) and Niccolò Pasqualetti (designer).
The judges spent two days selecting six prize-winning designers. This included the prize for the coveted La Redoute x HEAD award, which grants its recipient a capsule collection with the French brand. Last year’s winner, Alan Clerc, returned to show his refined, single-silhouette collection, all built around a structured suit.
designer. Ewen Danzeisen
Ewen Danzeisen was another resounding standout, with his finely tuned tailoring and clear-cut shapes, taking home this year’s La Redoute x HEAD Prize. Inspired by his Japanese heritage, Danzeisen drew on his tailoring background. Using a strictly black colour palette, 12 effortless looks were presented, made up of both garments and accessories. The result was a wholly wearable collection, one that fits in with the realities of everyday life. With sponsorship from the Italian fabric manufacturer Gruppocinque, the 26-year-old worked closely with their team to develop a series of bespoke fabrics.
designer. Matil Vanlint
Another distinguished talent was master’s student Matil Vanlint, who presented ‘V’ and took home two of the evening’s awards: the Master ASWE Prize – Association of Swiss Women and Empowerment – and the Prix de la Fondation Vahabzadeh. In her award-winning collection, the Belgium-based designer considered what form the figure could take if physical trauma left the body. Using an array of materials and techniques, from plaster to heavily distorting the fabric, Vanlint produced a series of 16 looks.
Beyond the garments, it was the complete performance and concept that truly propelled Vanlint’s collection to esteemed recognition. From the models’ askew wigs and disproportionate shoes to the unique soundtrack Vanlint produced for the show, no element of the performance was left untouched. Mower noted the judges were unanimous in their decision upon presenting the ASWE prize and acknowledged the University for funding such an essential prize for women in the industry.
In an industry brimming with talent, exploring fashion from all corners of the globe becomes essential. The exceptional work seen at this year’s HEAD Genève show proves that Geneva is poised to produce the designers of tomorrow.
designer. Asma Haddad
photography. Raphaëlle Mueller
words. Miranda Bunnis
