berlin’s finest fashion | bfw ss25 roundup

photography. Maxine Stiller

Berlin Fashion Week (BFW) consistently astonishes with its innovative and diverse showcases, outdoing itself season after season. From Namilia’s entrancing voyage to Y2K heaven to ODEEH’s vibrant explosion of colour, BFW truly embodied the essence of the city’s finest fashion. Delve deeper into this season’s standout moments and witness the best that Berlin has to offer.

Avenir transformed the street into a runway, showcasing their latest collection in which trench coats, patchwork, and sheer sets met the rush and monotony of the commute to work. Models donned neck pillows and smudged mascara and lipstick, representing that one sleepy coworker we all know. At the same time, distressed denim suits, khaki maxi skirts, pastel capris, and silky button-ups were complemented by unusual accessories – think bicycles, packages, newspapers, and vintage headphones. Commuter chic would be the best way to describe it.

Delicate intarsia lace, weathered fabrics, and sheer silks became the backbone of Milk of Lime’s spring/summer collection titled ‘Current.’ Naturally dyed slouchy silk button-ups and crisp leather jackets featured tied collars inspired by Shibori dyeing techniques. A reclaimed lamb fur patchwork top was paired with a silk wrap skirt while a one-of-a-kind linen maxi dress wowed with knotted threads resembling fringe. Graphic tees, sheer tanks, and wide-leg trousers were peppered throughout the collection, creating effortless lines that moved like water.

From cropped zip-ups with ‘Fashion junkie’ rhinestoned on the front to tiger printed cowl neck mini dresses, Namilia’s newest collection, ‘Good Girl Gone Bad,’ proved that Y2K isn’t going anywhere. The dazzling body of work was created using re-assembled and upcycled archival Ed Hardy, with the brand’s signature tattoo prints making their way onto leather trousers and micro mini skirts, asymmetrical dresses, distressed tees, trucker hats, and even knee-high boots. What really stole the show, though, were the graphic tanks with slogans like ‘I heart Ozempic,’ ‘too pretty for Rehab,’ and ‘Fame Kills.’

Richert Beil’s spring/summer collection merged heavy metal with beachwear. Each model looked like they had emerged from the sea, with slick, wet hair sticking to their faces and the garments. Black latex shorts, polos, and speedos were paired with dolphin-adorned graphic tees, plaid button-ups, and wide-leg faded denim jeans. Models in inflatable armbands – and a top inspired by one – goggles, and flip flops really emphasised the brand’s theme for this season. 

Known for transforming clothing and accessories, DZHUS’ latest collection ‘ANTICON’ did not disappoint. Showing in an all-white venue decorated only with candles, hats, and sand, the garments – representing the battle of self-discovery and homecoming – had the audience’s full attention. Dresses resembled garment bags and jackets took on the shape of duvets. Minimalism was combined with exuberant silhouettes, strong attention to detail, and undeniable craftsmanship, allowing each look to speak for itself. 

For Kitschy Couture’s collection, ‘Artificial Paradise,’ attendees were transported into a tropical honeymoon vacation in which the bride had married herself. Each look represented that theme, with flouncy maxi dresses, teenie weenie bikinis, and lingerie-esque tops in vibrant pinks, blues, and reds. 3D flower appliques found themselves fastened to the hips, chest, and necklines of ruffled dresses, tied-up lingerie, and tops made from reconstructed bras. On the invite were the words, “I’m drunk on love and immigrant nostalgia” and after the show, so were the audience. 

Sophistication, elegance, and simplicity surrounded Marke’s latest collection titled ‘Zapfenstreich.’ The melange of white monochromatic looks featuring extra long button-ups, cargo capris, and caps, and deep lilac military-esque jackets with oversized epaulettes paired with pink and turquoise striped tights brought an amusing contrast to the show. Other pieces included a pair of pink short shorts with a thick belt, wide-leg slouchy trousers, and cotton tanks with the same epaulettes. 

A colourful wonderland erupted at the Altes Museum for ODEEH’s spring/summer collection, ‘DÉFILÉ,’ with every colour of the rainbow appearing in monochromatic, printed, and textured looks. A white ruffled waistcoat was paired with floral printed wide-leg trousers with a drawstring waist while three differing floral prints found their way onto a long jacket, button-up shirt, and trousers. Stripes, denim, and abstract shapes added energy to the collection, in addition to ruffled fabric earrings, oversized ruff-looking necklaces, and vibrant clutches that accompanied the looks. 

RIANNA + NINA’s newest collection, ‘FOLKLORE’ was inspired by Greek folk costumes, featuring one-of-a-kind pieces made with Southeast European embroidery, 1960s printed tablecloths, and Italian crochet – among others. Tiered skirts, puff sleeves, and beaded tops were worn by Athenian ballet dancers as they performed century-old dances Balos, Zonaradikos, and Roditikos at the Greek Embassy. A fusion of heritage, colour, and texture created an unforgettable body of work that brought a sense of peace and happiness to BFW.

photography. Raphaelle Girardin

backstage photography. Raphaelle Girardin (Avenir, Milk of Lime, Namilia + Richert Beil) + Maxine Stiller (DHZUS, Kitschy Couture, Marke + ODEEH)
other imagery. Alexander Fischer (RIANNA + NINA)
words. Amber Louise

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