Photography | Kevin McMahon on Unsplash
Around 100 kilometres from Malaga lies one of the oldest – and perhaps one of the most photographed – cities in Spain. While many towns in Andalusia have charming, cobbled streets or beautiful and historic architecture, the real draw here is the dramatic location. Ronda overlooks a 120-metre-deep gorge and the views – both of the city and the countryside surrounding it – are spectacular in an other-worldly way. There’s a reason why it’s often referred to as the ‘city of dreams’; one feels as if one might have stepped onto a set for ‘Lord of the Rings’. Ronda’s romanticism has even seduced and inspired luminaries such as Ernest Hemmingway and Orson Welles, who both spent several summers living in the old town quarter.
Photography | Peter Edwards on Unsplash
What to see
The Tajo de Ronda canyon splits the city in two parts and is spanned by three bridges. The Puente Nuevo, which is not so ‘new’, as it was built in the 18th Century, is the tallest of the three with breathtaking panoramas, but it’s also worth venturing further uphill to enjoy arguably the most famous view of Ronda – the bridge itself.
Numerous invasions and occupations from the 5th Century onwards, including seven centuries of Arab rule, have resulted in impressive Islamic architecture interspersed with later Neoclassicism. Beneath the streets near Puente Arabe (also known as Puente Romano), you’ll find the Arabic baths, which date back to the 13thand 14th Centuries, were once used for ‘purifying’ visitors to the city and are thought to be the best preserved in the Iberian Peninsula. The Moorish King’s Palace meanwhile features beautiful gardens and a staircase cut into the rock with 200 steps descending to the Guaddalevín River.
left: Plaza de Toros. Photography | Pierre Antona on Unsplash. right: Puente Nuovo. Photography | Mitchell Orr on Unsplash
In the 18th and 19th centuries, the Romero family played a key role in the development of modern bullfighting, and the Neoclassical Plaza de Toros de Ronda is the oldest, and one of the grandest, bullrings in Spain. At Parador de Ronda (more on that later), you will find a major art collection about bullfighting, with over 100 works ranging from Romanticism, to Expressionism, Pop Art and Geometric Abstraction. Next to the bullring, the Alameda del Tajo Park with its 19th Century tree-lined boulevard and high vantage point offers some welcome shade.
left: Photography | Theo Middleton on Unsplash. right: Photography | Yuliya Matuzava on Unsplash
The Plaza Duquesa de Parcent is Ronda’s central square and is believed to stand on the Roman Forum. The town hall and several churches and convents are dotted around it, including the impressive Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor, built on the site of an ancient mosque. Also in the old quarter, you’ll find Moorish landmarks Mondragon Palace and Giant’s House and small shops selling local handicrafts such as woodwork, ceramics, leather goods and pretty tablecloths. Foodies should take home the local Iberian pork, goat’s cheese with almonds or cherry liqueur.
left: Palacio de Mondragón. Photography | Pierre Antona on Unsplash. right: Photography | Margot H on Unsplash
Where to stay & eat
In the heart of the Andalusian countryside, but only a ten-minute drive from Ronda, lies the tranquil and romantic Hotel Fuente de la Higuera, situated in a restored olive oil mill. Every room and suite has a private terrace so guests can bask in the southern Spanish sunshine and gorgeous scenery. The Duplex Suite occupies two levels linked by a spiral staircase, with two terraces (one of which boasts an enormous tub).
Breakfast beside the pool features produce from the hotel’s gardens, from almonds, walnuts and pistachios to figs, lemons, limes, bitter and sweet oranges, quince, apples and plums. Lunch is an informal affair but, in the evening, the terrace is transformed into a fine dining experience with a menu that changes daily and is prepared by chefs who have honed their skills in Michelin-starred establishments.
Hotel Fuente de la Higuera
The hotel’s service cannot be faulted, with 27 staff for a maximum of 24 guests, but the atmosphere is still relaxed and unpretentious. There’s even an honesty bar where you can help yourself to drinks and ice cream.
If you’re travelling in a large group, consider hiring The Lodge Ronda, with its 22 acres overlooking the SerranÍa De Ronda mountains. It accommodates up to 16 guests in 8 bedrooms with private bathrooms, but there’s much more, including a 20m pool with bar, wellness area, several terraces, and an expansive living room with an open fireplace and original artwork. Private chefs will tailor meals to your schedule and preferences, with a farm-to-table approach using organic produce from the grounds.
The Lodge Ronda
If you’d prefer to stay in town, the Parador de Ronda is situated in the former Casa Consistorial (town hall) and food market. Paradors are a network of 98 state-run hotels located in properties of historical or cultural value, including restored palaces, castles, fortresses, monasteries, convents and manor houses, but also some outstanding contemporary buildings.
In Ronda, the interior of the Parador has been modernised, but the original facade with its arcades, cornices and traditional clock, has been carefully maintained. Perched on the edge of a cliff next to Puente Nuevo, it boasts dramatic views of the Tajo de Ronda canyon. Inside, large picture windows make the most of this vista, but it can also be enjoyed from the swimming pool or the restaurant’s terrace.
At each Parador, the food is focused on regional cuisine, so as well as Andalusian and Mediterranean dishes, here you can sample specialties from the Ronda highlands. Veal oxtail is a staple of traditional gastronomy and is served in a hearty stew, but vegetarians can enjoy dishes such as Aubergine, Quinoa and Apricot Timbale with cashew cream and black truffle oil.
Cold soups such as Ajo Blanco (made here with almonds and locally grown pears) are typical. Or try the Porra Antequerana, which is similar to gazpacho. We also sampled the Partridge Pâté with red berries, the Roast Octopus on celeriac cream with a sweet garlic dressing and several of the noteworthy homemade desserts.
left: Photography | J G on Unsplash. right: Parador de Ronda
At Benito Gómez’s two Michelin-starred Bardal, you’ll find a creative take on Andalusian cuisine. There is a choice of two seasonal tasting menus, both with options of wine pairings and an artisanal cheese selection before dessert. You can expect dishes such as Razor Clams with corn and vanilla, Labneh and Truffle Capelletti with hare blanquette, Iberian Sea Cucumber and Chocolate and Tonka Bean Doughnut.
La Tragatá is Gómez’s more informal and affordable eatery, but the Andalusian pantry is still elevated by innovative touches. It specialises in tapas and small plates with avant-garde offerings such as Orange Cold Soup with white prawn and avocado, Marinated Salmon in vanilla lime and roe yogurt or Stewed Lentils with chorizo and foie, all served alongside over 100 wine references.
If you have the time, explore the wineries and olive oil mills outside of the city, some of which offer accommodation, such as LA Organic, the award-winning olive oil farm co-founded by Philippe Starck, with its new and striking LA Almazara museum.
Photography | Bas van der Linden on Unsplash
Schön! alive travelled to Andalusia courtesy of Strathberry. Read more about that here.
Read more about La Almazara in issue 1 of Schön! alive.
words. Huma Humayun
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