For Spring/Summer 2026, BOSS stepped away from its familiar sporty codes, staging ‘Paradox’ at Milan’s cavernous Fonderia Macchi. The collection explored the tension at the heart of the brand: order versus chaos, clarity brushing against entropy. Dutch artist Boris Acket’s installation, ‘Aesthetics of Decay,’ created the perfect backdrop – a scaffold of rusted metal and shifting light that rendered the clothes simultaneously constructed and undone.
Creative director Marco Falcioni explains that Paradox grew from the idea of an imaginary dialogue between German choreographer Pina Bausch and industrial designer Dieter Rams. “We’ve been associated with sport, we’ve been sponsoring sport for many years. For this year we’re exploring the other side, which is the connection of art and design.”
Inspired by Rams’ sharp methodicalness and Bausch’s emotional control, Falcioni mirrored these technicalities into suiting, marrying structural precision with expressive movement.
On the women’s side, contrasts are literal and immediate. Form-fitting jersey tops pair with voluminous trousers; matte fabrics mix with shimmering silks; draped dresses plunge at the back but cinch at the waist. A mocha jersey top with pleated sand chinos radiated confidence – just like the ankle-length dress sported by breakthrough model Amelia Grey – while a black coffee dress with twisted drape and deep back cut flirted with understated allure. Reworked trenches, inverted cardigans, and the new lapel bag punctuated the collection with sharp elegance.
Menswear retained its tailoring heart but lightened the touch. Soft-shouldered suits and wide-legged trousers coexisted with statement outerwear: a crisp white leather jacket, a deep chocolate lambskin coat, and utility trousers paired with finely knitted polo shirts. Doctor’s bags and ultra-light sneakers grounded the line in real-life versatility, proving that Paradox is as wearable as it is conceptual. Even brand ambassador David Beckham seemed speechless watching front row in his chocolate brown velvet suit.
Materials contributed significantly to the success of this paradoxical combination. Soft wools, technical knits, mid-weight silks, and functional fabrics found balance. At moments, you saw jacquards patterned with subtle prints; at others, smooth surfaces played with sheer layering. The silhouettes alternated between composed and undone – jackets partly stitched, hems left unfinished, drape that seems on the verge of release.
BOSS wasn’t asking us to commit to one side of the argument. Instead, the collection celebrated the friction – the constant, living pulse that defines the human experience.
Discover the collection here.
photography. courtesy of BOSS
words. Gennaro Costanzo











































































































































































