a second renaissance | manifattura tabacchi, florence

photography. Pietro Savorelli

If you believed Florence was exclusively Donatello and Ferragamo, you’d be mistaken. While the touristic hoards flock and queue, struggling to follow in the footsteps of the Renaissance masters, a wider part of the ancient city has experienced a youthful rebirth.

Beyond the city walls, on the outskirts of the city centre, is the Manifattura Tabacchi; the Truman Brewery of Florence. Once a former tobacco factory, closed in 2001, the site has been reborn as a thriving and enterprising mix of education facilities, shops, restaurants and luxury apartments. 

A few stops on the tram from Florence’s Santa Maria Novella station, Manifattura Tabacchi is worthy of the adventurous detour for its clean Art Deco lines and generous proportions. In 2027, the city’s new T4 tram line will directly link the complex to the city centre.

An ambitious urban regeneration project, the development was started in 2018 with full completion scheduled for 2028. Covering 110,000 m2, it is currently nearly three-quarters complete and home to such distinguished establishments as the Polimoda fashion school and LVMH’s Métiers d’Excellence.

photography. Pietro Savorelli

The former industrial site’s masterplan was developed with the contribution of several renowned designers including Sanaa, q-bic, Piuarch and landscape architect Antonio Perazzi. The factory site’s original architecture has been sympathetically restored with minimal changes and a focus on efficiency and sustainability. The buildings are heated and cooled by means of a complex geothermal plant, called a condensation loop, which connects a series of wells, collecting the natural heat and coolness of the groundwater.

location. ‘Puro’ apartment
photography. Valentina Sommariva

For fashion students, Polimoda opened its second city campus in 2024 alongside the Polimoda Library, housing over 29,000 books, designed to become not only the most important fashion library in Europe, but also an international hub for research and comparative studies. The complex houses a hall of residence with accommodation for 384 students, as well as a hostel for 136 guests, designed for travellers and tourists who desire to discover the more innovative side of Florence without the Gucci price tag.

location. Archivi Sartoriali
photographer. Sofie Delauw

Experience some of the most exciting young brands in Florence: Manifattura Tabacchi is home to tailoring by Archivi Sartoriali, workwear reinterpreted by Captain Santors and artisan streetwear brand, Cool Farm by Mauna Kea. It’s also home to the first European outlet of Puebco, a Japanese brand known for products made with upcycled materials or discarded items, and leading hat label SUPERDUPER, which specialises in tailor-made headwear and is the perfect place to pick-up a stylish souvenir.

location. SUPERDUPER
photographer. Sofie Delauw

For the gastronomes, the Manifattura Tabacchi experience ranges from local specialities to international cuisines introduced to the city for the first time. Most notably is Hiroko Bentō e vini fatti a modo, the first bentō bar in Florence, and Bulli&Balene with its many gourmet specialities. Po’Stò is a gastro bakery open from breakfast through to aperitif time with the VIVIDO entertainment area offering live music, a DJ set, refined cocktails and a menu with the emphasis on Tuscan flavours.

location. Hiroko Bentō e vini fatti a modo
photographer. Sofie Delauw

location. Bottega Biologica
photographer. Sofie Delauw

The campus-like old factory is an enclave of creative energy while also letting its historical roots shine through. The ‘Caveau di Manifattura Tabacchi’ – booking is required – is a place where machinery, window frames, objects and materials left in the factory are retained and offered to design engineers, artists and designers wishing to give them a second life.

A modern and refreshing alternative after the Uffizi, Manifattura Tabacchi is the most exciting thing to happen to Florence since David was taken inside and out of the rain. Grab a lacquered bentō box from Hiroko, or a recycled tote bag from Puebco, and enjoy a few unrushed hours at this revitalised and creative addition to Tuscany’s magical city. 

To learn more, visit manifatturatabacchi.com.

photography. Pietro Savorelli, Valentina Sommariva + Sofie Delauw
words. Marcus Jaye