kartik research aw26 | craft as resistance

Finding a way to bottle the hazy glow of a desert sunset is an ambitious task, but Louis Vuitton’s latest LV Mirage collection suggests it is mostly a matter of choosing the right silk. For its sixth edition, the Maison is focusing on the spirit of fluidity and harmony with a capsule that leans into a sense of togetherness and tradition, offering a wardrobe that moves through the day with a soft, earthy palette of powdery pinks and warm neutrals.

Everything about the ready-to-wear selection is designed to be versatile, moving seamlessly from afternoon gatherings to evening events. These are silhouettes that favour comfort without losing their edge, often featuring precious details like gem buttons and delicate embroidery. The collection also marks the debut of a lightweight poncho and a silk stole, both using a tone-on-tone Monogram pattern that plays with matte and shiny finishes to create a textured, sophisticated look.

The real news this year, however, is the brand’s first-ever artistic collaboration for this universe, partnering with Lebanese designer Nada Debs. Known for her ability to weave traditional craft into modern geometry, Debs has introduced a dune motif that anchors a special selection of items. Her contribution includes a high-end Bakhoor set inspired by mashrabiya patterns and a reinterpretation of the Capucines bag in grained Taurillon leather. It is a partnership that blends the designer’s affinity for the desert landscape with the high-craft legacy of the Louis Vuitton ateliers.

Iconic leather goods have not been left out of the transformation. The Speedy and Capucines bags have been reinterpreted using varnished Monogram leather and gem-like embellishments, a theme that carries over into the footwear.  A ‘Heirloom’ detail acts as a recurring signature across the shoes and eyewear. The Colour Blossom fine jewellery line also makes a vibrant appearance, reimagining the Monogram flower in the deep green of malachite and the vivid blue of amazonite, providing a sharp contrast to the muted tones of the clothing.

Travel remains the heartbeat of the Maison and the LV Mirage campaign highlights the Horizon 55 Business as the collection’s essential companion. This iteration in Damier Graphite canvas is reimagined for the modern traveller with a large external cane that keeps the interior completely flat for more efficient packing. To match the collection’s focus on subtle luxury, the suitcase also features leather corners and silent wheels.

To complete the sensory experience, Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud has developed Ambre Levant, a fragrance that acts as a liquid horizon. By blending amber notes with oud, the scent aims to capture the radiance of the golden hour and the glow of a sunset. It serves as the final, invisible layer to a collection that prioritises tradition and generosity above all else.

The LV Mirage Capsule Collection is now available worldwide. Discover more here.

photography. courtesy of Louis Vuitton
words. Gennaro Costanzo

Glenn Martens has spent the last few years turning denim into a high-fashion fever dream and now he is applying that same experimental energy to the way we pack our bags. Diesel is officially entering the travel category with a collection of suitcases, duffels and backpacks designed for those who prefer to travel boldly. 

While this launch marks the first comprehensive luggage collection under the brand’s primary line, Diesel has spent years flirting with the travel category through various collaborations. They previously teamed up with Samsonite for a high-visibility range of semi-transparent suitcases and worked with Mandarina Duck on rugged, textile-heavy bags.

Developed alongside the Canton Unicorn Group, the range focuses on industrial design that acts as a visual statement compared to any other standard piece of cargo. The partnership also emphasises sustainability, ensuring the bags are built to withstand international travel’s rigours.

Brushed metals and utilitarian technical treatments replace the typical shiny plastics found at baggage reclaim. Under Martens’ creative direction, the collection uses matte textures and pop graphics to stretch the boundaries of what traditional travel pieces look like. 

You can choose from six different treatments, including aluminium-inspired hard cases for serious protection and logo-driven soft luggage for those who travel light. The colour palette sticks to the brand’s rugged roots with silver, khaki, bronze and black, though a distinctive all-over printed travel sticker design provides a louder option for anyone wanting to reinforce Diesel’s graphic identity.

Functionality has not been sacrificed for the sake of the aesthetic, as the engineering behind the bags is surprisingly meticulous. The suitcases feature silent universal wheels with 360-degree smooth rotation and TSA-approved locks to keep everything secure during transit. Inside, the layout is organised with specific pockets for electronics, toiletries and clothing, making it a functional tool as much as an accessory. 

The collection is available worldwide through Diesel stores and their digital platforms across EMEA, NAM and Japan. Find out more here.

photography. courtesy of Diesel
words. Gennaro Costanzo

“The starting point for this collection was to revisit the fundamental elements that make up a garment and rethink them from the ground up,” said designer Ziggy Chen. An early proponent of quiet luxury, there is an unfinished history that exists in Ziggy Chen’s clothing each season. Fragments of the past are observed, displaced, and reassembled through a contemporary sensibility. Colours are muted and restrained. The construction is honest and raw, and pieces are made of natural fibres, wool, cashmere, hemp, linen, and silk. 

So, ‘Dissparation’ is a fitting name for Ziggy Chen and his Fall/Winter 2026 collection, alike, “Dissaparation moves at the edges of perception. It is not defined by what is immediately visible, but by what shifts, separates, and recomposes over time,” read the program, and approaching his 15th anniversary, Chen’s proof that restraint has staying power. 

“I see the past ten years as an ongoing process of learning. Looking back, my understanding of the industry was quite limited at the beginning,” said Chen. “Even after more than a decade, there are still many long-established techniques within this industry that I continue to study and learn from,” he added.

It can be said that a Ziggy Chen collection is a thumb through the familiar. A beat-up leather jacket that feels like a luxurious treasure. A sturdy pair of trousers that once felt too small, but now fits just right, and that paper boy hat that you’d only seen in sepia-colored photographs on your grandfather’s nightstand, suddenly feels like it was made just for you, because it was.

words. Malcolm Thomas