Courtesy of YashkaThor
Philosophers and milliners: it’s a rather anomalous combination, unless you’re Yashka and Thor, the founders of YashkaThor hats. While studying Philosophy at university the pair became interested in the concept of developing a transformative, wearable article that would enrich the life of its owner, and recontextualise the idea of luxury. So YashkaThor was borne. Unorthodox shapes and experimental, thought-driven design are the lifeblood of the London-based brand, which has already attracted the attention of creatives like the singer-songwriter and poet Leonard Cohen. Fresh off of an exhibition at Thomas Erber’s New York opening of The Cabinet of Curiosities, Schön! reached out to the pair to get their perspective on philosophy, design and the delicate art of hat making.
You two met in school while studying philosophy. How did studying that particular subject come to have bearing on your designs?
We met at St. Donat’s Castle, Atlantic College, a wonderful international boarding school and after that both studied Philosophy at university. Studying Philosophy is The Cause. We felt that there was a need to touch and interact physically with concepts.
In a completely random world, a circular one, we have to create our own points. One must choose these points randomly, choose what to do. These points are the points of our belief, the point of our living. There is no point other than that which we create. Hats can be used to symbolise the joy of our choosing.
Did either of you have a background in design when you started? If not, how did you prepare for the process of starting a line?
YashkaThor sees the design of hats, the design of business structure, the design of a smooth movement of your arm in the wind, all as important moments in design.
We spent some years developing our own hat technique which incorporates traditional millinery techniques, taught to us by some of the best and longstanding British milliners, with our own modern and less orthodox ways.There have been many hat makers before us.
One of the most arresting things about your hats are their unique shapes. I know it was in part to provide an alternative to traditional hat shapes. What were some of the inspirations behind the new shapes you two chose?
The negative space between objects, the negative space between concepts, is what inspires us to create. We’re inspired to create hats which can be worn in all environments seamlessly. Hats to crown all events.
Can you tell us a little bit more about this concept of hats as a transformative piece that has the power to affect the mood and experiences of the wearer?
Like a poem, which perhaps best describes itself and renders analysis secondary, these hats must be experienced and lived in. The power of wearing a hat for a day must be felt.
Our hats inspire dialogue, inspire people to rethink their concepts. Is that a hat? What do you have on your head? What is a hat? What it’s name? Is it cultural, or is it a religious hat? These hats become walking tools of philosophy.
Expanding on the previous question, I’d also like for you to tell us a little bit more about why you chose hats as a vessel for channelling these transformative powers. Why not shirts or pants for instance?
Great! Hats are ’emptier’ objects than shirts, pants etc. People invest meaning, function and expectations into shirts and pants and therefore continue to use them without question, whereas a hat can be invested with meaning more freely. Wearing a hat is absolutely questionable. An object like this represents the pinnacle of humanity, where we can go beyond the necessary and transcend utility. Hats show that we can be agents for change in our lives.
Courtesy of YashkaThor
One of my favourite parts of your website is the stories section. Some of these stories reference to epic poetry, historical figures and fable while some of the characters seem to be completely of your own making. They honestly made me think a little of Italo Calvino and Paulo Coelho. Can you tell us a little more about them?
Sometimes, before we go to bed, we leave our hats out on the floor of our studio and in the morning when we come downstairs, if we’re lucky, a story is left under there, hatched.
Can you tell me a little bit more about how you two work when it comes to designing a new collection? Where do you find inspiration and what is the dynamic between you two during the creative process?
We both work together, our minds sharing mountain paths and grassy plains. Our relationship together forms everything we do creatively. From the moment we saw each other, when one of us walked into the room (we can never remember which one of us walked into the room), we were one.
We’re really enjoying working with some really wonderful designers and brands, collaborating with exciting Agi and Sam, with sports lux delectable brand Ada and Nik, and passionate Ria Keburia. Its challenging to see where the horizon of YashkaThor meets the territory of new worlds.
Your hats have been described in a lot of different ways “architectural,” “whimsical” etc. How would you as their creators describe them?
Thank you. We would describe them as architectural. The houses we carry around with us on our heads.
One of your goals is to create “radical luxury” what does this mean to you and how does it differ from what is made at other luxury ateliers?
In our focus on British handmade products, constructed precisely out of the most premium materials with the upmost care and attention to detail by a highly skilled team who are committed to each stitch, we might be placed as similar to other luxury ateliers.
The ‘radical’ refers to politics. These hats inspire movement. Inspire new ways of thinking and living. Combined, we hope it inspires a conscious consuming, where the artisans and clients are both aware of the process and each step is considered and rejoiced in.
If you could have any one person wear one of your hats (even someone deceased) who would it be and why?
We imagine Sisyphus wearing one of our hats.
Courtesy of YashkaThor
What nourishes your creativity? How do you recharge when you feel like you’re in a creative rut?
Mangosteen and spirulina are particularly tasty right now! We’re also experimenting with camel milk and moon-on-a-sticks.
What do you see in the future for Yashkathor?
A lot of hats, and a lot of lovely people, a great team.
No designer wants to pick favoruties, but do you have a favourite hat, and if so, why is it so special to you?
At night, when we go to sleep, or when we shower, we take our hat off, but even then, there is a hat which stays on. A secret private hat, it shimmers above our head, all of our heads. This is our favourite.
Words / Stephanie Smith-Strickland
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