In the heart of London, the Victoria and Albert Museum is preparing for what promises to be one of the most dazzling cultural events of the Summer: the UK’s first major Cartier exhibition in almost thirty years. Running from April 12 to Nov 16, this extraordinary showcase will span more than 350 of Cartier’s iconic pieces, offering a rare glimpse into the fascinating world of one of the most celebrated jewellers in history. The exhibition will not only trace the evolution of Cartier but also highlight the Maison’s influence on art, culture, and design. In the words of Netflix’s popular period melodrama ‘Bridgerton’ – this may be the diamond of the year.
Coincidentally, ‘Bridgerton’s’ epoch of royals and aristocrats reflect the calibre of Cartier’s clientele since the early 20th century. The V&A exhibition features a variety of pieces sported by debutants and members of the royal family. The 1953 Williamson Diamond brooch, for instance, was commissioned by Queen Elizabeth II. While a stunning ceremonial necklace (merging Indian jewellery tradition with Art Deco modernism) was created for the Maharaja of Patiala.
While Cartier’s journey began in 1847, it was not until its founder’s grandsons–Louis, Pierre, and Jacques–took over the family business in the early 1900s, that the Maison transformed into a global icon. With a keen eye for beauty and an innate sense of artistry, they propelled the firm into the rarefied upper echelons of society. Known as “the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers,” Cartier’s creations became synonymous with luxury, elegance and exclusivity.
In lieu of this, the V&A kicks off its exhibition with an exploration of the Cartier brothers’ shared vision and ambition. Visitors are told how their design and business strategies enabled Cartier to transcend borders and establish an international presence in Paris, London and New York. A notable piece within this first section is the majestic Manchester Tiara commissioned in 1903 by Consuelo, Dowager Duchess of Manchester–an exquisite gold, silver and diamond symbol of Cartier’s creativity and enduring legacy.
The Maison’s ability to adapt and redefine contemporary design played a significant role in its continued success. Cartier’s workshops became legendary for their excellence, producing some of the most intricate and stunning jewels the world has ever seen. In respect of this, a section of the exhibition delves into the technical side of Cartier’s design process, from the cutting of gemstones to the assembly of its iconic pieces.
With a sharp eye for design and a love for the decorative arts, the firm’s pieces often drew inspiration from around the world. Early 20th-century designs incorporated influences from French architecture, Indian craftsmanship and ancient Egyptian motifs. For instance, Cartier London’s scarab brooch (featured in the exhibit) is an intricate piece combining colourful, calibrécut gem-set wings with a coral and emerald Art Deco composition (1925). Another exhibition focal point is Cartier’s delicately romantic ‘Garland Style.’ An aesthetic originally inspired by 18th-century French designs, it’s now synonymous with the Maison’s blend of lightness and femininity.
Cartier’s technical expertise is also highlighted through the inclusion of rare and extraordinary gemstones, many of which were sourced by Jacques Cartier during his travels to India, Sri Lanka, and the Middle East. From the rarest rubies to the largest sapphires and historic diamonds, some of the most precious gems in the world have passed through the hands of Cartier’s craftsmen. Keep an eye out for the amethyst and citrine jewels that were fashionable in the 1930s!
A standout in this section is the panther motif, which became one of the Maison’s most recognizable symbols. The motif first appeared on a wristwatch in 1914–the earliest example of the panther skin pattern used in a Cartier creation–which is displayed alongside a 1978 panther bracelet of pavé diamonds set with onyx. Speaking of watches, the exhibition’s curators have gathered a healthy collection of ticking pieces, including the whimsical Crash wristwatch, whose design in 1967 was influenced by the artistic freedom and nonconformity of Swinging London. Through these timepieces, visitors can observe Cartier’s commitment to functionality and design in equal measure.
What sets Cartier apart is its ability to craft an image of sophistication, luxury, and elegance. By the turn of the century, it had become a household name emblematic of glamour and prestige. As the exhibition progresses, visitors will see how the firm expertly shaped its public image through pioneering marketing strategies. From showcasing its creations at international expositions, to lending pieces to high-profile figures in society and entertainment like film stars María Félix and Grace Kelly (whose 10.48-carat diamond engagement ring is an exhibition centrepiece).
Curators recognize how the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris was a landmark event for the firm. Cartier was notably the only jeweller displaying its creations alongside leading couturiers in the Pavillon de l’Élégance. This moment signified the brand’s seamless integration into the world of high fashion, and set the stage for Cartier’s future success.
For the exhibition’s grand finale, curators have collated a breathtaking display of sparkling tiaras. Cartier’s expertise emanates from masterpieces like the opal tiara, commissioned in 1937 by Mary Cavendish. In 1953, the Art Deco head-piece was inlaid with large black opals and was later worn by the Dowager Duchess of Devonshire at Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. Another guest, Clementine Churchill, attended the occasion wearing Cartier’s Scroll Tiara–crafted in the Garland Style, it’s a halo of bold, open scrollwork (hence the name) decorated with over 1,040 diamonds. The piece was later by Rihanna on the cover of W Magazine (2016), and is now on display at the exhibition.
On par with Cartier’s legacy of art collaborations, the exhibition has been designed by British architect and multi-disciplinary artist Asif Khan MBE. With an eye for sensory experiences and aesthetics, Khan is a participating artist in the Islamic Arts Biennale 2025 and was awarded an MBE for “Services to Architecture” (2017), and the FX award for outstanding contribution to Architecture (2024). For the exhibition, the creative “wanted our collaboration to be a dreamscape where art and science converge, with Cartier’s pieces suspended in light, time and sound, allowing history to breathe and the future to linger.”
Meanwhile, exhibition curators Helen Molesworth and Rachel Garrahan have said: “Cartier is one of the most famous jewellery houses in the world. This exhibition will explore how Louis, Pierre and Jacques Cartier, together with their father Alfred, adopted a strategy of original design, exceptional craftsmanship and international expansion that transformed the Parisian family jeweller into a household name. We are excited to be able to share with visitors some of Cartier’s most famous creations as well as revealing previously unseen objects and archive material that further enriches our understanding of a jewellery house that continues to influence the way we adorn ourselves today.”
The Cartier exhibition is a journey through more than a century of artistry, design, and technical mastery. From the early days of the Cartier family business to the heights of global recognition, this exhibition paints a portrait of a Maison that has shaped not just the world of jewellery but the very definition of luxury. With pieces that have graced the necks of royals, movie stars, and influential figures across the globe, Cartier’s legacy continues to shine brightly. It reminds us that beauty, craftsmanship, and innovation are timeless.
The Cartier exhibition runs from April 12, 2025, to November 16, 2025, at the V&A, South Kensington. For more details, visit the official exhibition page.
words. Raegan Rubin