The 53rd edition of Lisbon’s fashion week ModaLisboa was subtitled “Collective” – a call to all players to “act with us in building a better industry, a more sustainable and nobler industry,” explains Eduard Abbondanza, President of the ModaLisboa Association.
The issue most under discussion in the fashion industry today is of course sustainability, something that is not lost on either ModaLisboa or many of the independent designers who show there. “We are committed to the environment around us, “states Abbondanza, “and we want to think about sustainability, ethics, responsibility, balance, emotion and equality as the major pillars of the present.” In an effort to reduce single-use plastic, guests were given reusable bottles refilled by attendants sporting water-tank backpacks and the many activities surrounding the runway included Fast Talks – debates on issues such as Sustainability and Fashion & Positive Impact.
Traditionally, in times of economic downturn or political uncertainty, fashion turned grey. It’s clear that is no longer the case, as demonstrated here by the continued comeback of colour on the catwalk. Not so surprising for Spring/Summer collections, one might say, but this time the runways truly were a rainbow. Pastel shades of lilac, peach and pistachio – like a bowl of sugared almonds – proved immensely popular, whilst other designers opted for bolder tones and it could be argued that orange truly is the new black. Even the benches in the show space were not the usual white but bright, sunshine yellow – perhaps communicating the hope of a sunnier future? Here’s a rundown of Schön! s favourite colourful collections.
Known for his exploration of silhouette, both structured and fluid, Aleksandar Protic paid as much attention to colour as form in his latest (above), which was inspired by memories of both the clothing and personalities that made an impression during his childhood. Cotton, linen, viscose and silk were saturated in hues of tangerine, banana yellow, olive green and sky blue, which were countered by several all-white looks.
Fashion collective AWAYTOMARS took a cue from its name by exploring the idea of ‘Life on Mars’, or rather how we imagine it might look, and the mysterious ‘alien lifeforms’ that inhabited the planet billions of years ago. Lilac, violet, apricot, aubergine, fuchsia and varied shades of blue were presented in graduated ombres and kaleidoscopic prints resembling exploding meteorites.
Alexandra Moura once again showed at ModaLisboa in partnership with Portugal Fashion, but this time she presented her collaboration with innovative brand Decenio. Moura’s signatures of deconstructed denim and details referencing historical costume were still apparent but in materials chosen from Decenio’s portfolio, including contemporary, technological fabric. Although there was plenty of black and beige, intense blues and bold blood orange punctuated the colour palette. A reoccurring print was based on a photograph of Moura herself.
While Patrick de Pádua did not forsake his favourite colour combination of black, white and red (this time in Bordeaux and Chilli), yellows and greens dominated the collection in the form of camouflage and cactus prints and subverted smiley faces. The inspiration? The club kids of the ‘90s – who continue to influence the youth of today – adding a ‘liveliness’ to de Pádua’s slick streetwear.
Kolovrat’s collection asked the question, “Can trash be beautiful?”. Her genderless, draped coats and blazers and oversized t-shirts referenced recycling and the transformation of items previously considered disposable. Beginning with black (accessories with almost fluorescent red), followed by prints with flashes of turquoise, the collection soon moved onto multi-toned ombres and colourful, abstract prints resembling an artist’s paint-splattered overalls.
Ricardo Andrez also reflected on the question of sustainability and his brand’s own impact. Believing that “design can and should be fair,” he focused his collection on “the continued search for deadstock”. Boiler suits were hot pink, total looks were tie-dyed and over-sized tops colour blocked, while rainbow prints on shimmering blouses and giant bows reminded us of the discarded garments of the ‘80s.
Who knows if the future will be orange – or red, blue, pink or green – but it’s certainly looking a bit brighter with the help of the ModaLisboa ‘collective’.
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words. Huma Humayun
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