The sixth day of Paris Ready-to-Wear Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016 exhibited a plethora of graphic prints. From Kenzo’s posh traveller to Marimekko’s 70s It-girl, the day was brimming of vibrant patterns. We also sunk our teeth into the collections of Masha Ma, Ann-Sofie Back, and John Galliano.
Models emerged from mountainous platforms that resembled roman aqueducts at Kenzo — they glided onto the mobile runway, sporting mod, triangular silhouettes, marked with bold quadrilateral prints. A tribe of effervescent dresses with hanging peplum detaisl and monochromatic pocket squares oozed retro sensibility. Geometric miniature purses in earth tones and flashing flecks of electric blue emphasized narrow waistlines and brought new meaning to the fanny pack. Designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon imagined a spirited collection for the young woman who only travels first-class.
In a gender bender trend, Masha Ma wowed us with a unisex romp of conceptual jumpsuits and scantily clad torsos crafted out of scrawny iridescent webbing. Both male and female models wore Ma’s experimental ’90s-like designs: inky leather flared trousers and single detached sleeves in white and black were accessorized with netted choke chains. High-waisted fringed belts twirled on top straight legged cropped trousers and a shimmering silver vest reflected one too many drinks at a disco: arousing, perplexing and ultimately, tremendously satisfying.
There were lava lamp prints, broad stripes, polka dots and checker boxes galore in the fresh collection of Marimekko. The Finnish design house took centre stage at Palais de Tokyo Sunday afternoon in a spacious room decorated with vibrant prints. One by one, models strut across in camouflage prints of olive and bubble-gum pink. Creative Director Anna Teurnell fashioned loose fits and knee-length shift dresses that oozed a ’70s vibe. Comfortable silhouettes accentuated the textiles’ pattern for a classically modern woman.
Ann-Sofie Back is one of Sweden’s most prominent fashion designers due to her innovative outlook on clothing. For Spring/Summer 2016, Back exaggerated trouser legs created an eye-opening hole punch effect on skirts. Pieces were fastened with a single metallic fixture and sky-printed dresses were reminiscent of Back’s holidays in Croatia. It’s without a doubt that Back has painted a picture of a smart and exciting woman.
Barely-there lace and hot blazers were seen in John Galliano’s feminine translation of a masculine sensibility. It seemed as if designer Bill Gaytten was thinking, “What if Galliano were a woman,” in a collection of sweetly punk looks. Polka dots were juxtaposed with shining knight helmets and large buttoned jackets. A pinch of girly was thrown into the mix with ruffled skirts, but real standouts included Galliano’s outerwear such as an olive plaid coat. Youthful and sexy in every sense, Galliano’s new collection was for the wild at heart.
Words / Sheri Chiu and Chloe Rash