The second day of Paris Fashion Week featured a balance of strict classicism and unexpected twists. Damir Doma showcased grunge elements with a luxurious slant, while Dries Van Noten toyed with bold colours and kaleidoscope prints. Yang Li draped models in lush furs, whereas Jun Takahashi of Undercover recounted a sublime princely narrative in his show. Schön! brings you the very best from Day 2 of the shows in Paris.
Damir Doma’s women Ready-to-Wear collection worked textiles to the bone by shyly placing holes in sweaters and leaving backs bare on dresses. The Croatian and German designer married earthen textures of degraded beiges and grays with fluid silhouettes. By exhibiting oversized jackets and contrasting plaid patterns, Doma’s collection fades perfectly into autumn.
Our heads were in the clouds with Yang Li’s aviator adventure. Sleek silhouettes were exaggerated at the hips, with overflowing silk asymmetrical coats provided an aerodynamic sensibility. Yang Li not only played with oversized trousers with slits at the knees, but also inserted a few aviator jackets in the collection. The Australian designer of Chinese descent then added full fur skirts and lush corsets, reminiscent of air-light clouds.
Dries Van Noten started his collection with a navy and fuchsia wool coat and increased the volume from there. Simple silhouettes were magnified with draping flowers; oversized garments were painted with brilliant silver and black swirls. The Belgian designer paired kaleidoscope prints with brilliant leaf appliqués, making his collection feel like an otherworldly optical illusion.
Undercover by Jun Takahashi was broken into several chapters of a fantasy fit for a king. Takahashi’s muses were adorned with capes in mustard, baby blue, and beige. Silk was woven in and out of bodice openings, like spider webs. We saw heirs to the Scottish throne in one chapter of green plaid and crowns. The finale of the show presented models in porcelain blue and white dresses holding forbidden apples we all want a bite of.
Words / Sheri Chiu
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