Carmen Marc Valvo drew inspiration from Constantinople in his new collection that alludes to historical fantasy. He focused on straight silhouettes with opulent embellishments and mosaics to reflect the lavishness of the Ottoman Empire. Models wore garments with copper and gold plates adorning their bodice and shoulders like armour. These girls were ready for battle.
Tanya Taylor painted a portrait of a fun girl who loves to experiment with her wardrobe in her excitingly colourful runway show. From dotted lambskin dresses to lime green fuzzy collars and glossy silver skirts, the collection was made for the girl who is in tune with both the hip hop of the street and Valentino chic. Taylor played with textures from fur to lightweight “blob” dresses and color blocked along the way. Her eccentrically joyful show was a delight to watch.
Ever the cool girl’s go-to designer for easy-to-wear pieces, Rebecca Minkoff played to her strengths with min-and-match separates to enhance any contemporary look. Accessories were a standout: silver-clamped fur stoles, lacquered leather accordion purses in black and teal, and crepe beanies which fluttered flirtatiously like sea anemones all made the must-have list.
Sally LaPointe, who was featured last year as one of Harper’s Bazaar’s Women Who Dare, presented classic winter sportswear with a modern twist. With mainly black or white looks, models displayed LaPointe’s serious tailoring and draping skills. Plush sweaters in pastel colours maintained seasonal trends, while chic maxi gowns in silk jersey stood out for being elegant in their simplicity, often synched at the waist with delicate, leather-strapped metal clasps. Severely pointed booties in metallic and navy suede completed the glamourous rock look.
Black Sail by Nautica travelled to the frozen tundra where menswear consists of high performance winter apparel including coats, beanies, and ski goggles. Using burned landscape prints, the collection featured a mélange of icy and matte hues ranging from army green, coal black, misty grey, and beige. The skillfully layered, luxurious combinations created the man ready to brave whatever winter may bring.
Zimmermann takes a spin at the Beatniks and Teddy Girls of the 50s in a collection that defies common attitudes towards femininity. Voluminous proportions juxtaposed black-based floral appliques, while metallic eyelets held swaying organza together. Designer Nicky Zimmermann combined lush textures and three-dimensional knits to add depth to her rebellious collection.
Emerson by Jackie Fraser-Swan seemed to ride the tail end of the recent punk wave. Mostly black pieces, often long and flowing in a style preferred by Florence + the Machine, were paired with spiked Dr. Martens, and often embellished with sequins (think sparkly plaid on sheer black) – a reinterpretation of the Dries van Noten sheer grunge look we saw last year. A spattering of lilac pieces and purple spray-painted braids throughout brought the palette out of the Dark Age.