Desigual was one of the most fun and upbeat shows of the day as supermodel Candice Swanepoel opened the défilé with fantastic energy and a huge smile. We not only saw Desigual’s signature polka dot and psychedelic prints, but also the faces of Barcelona’s city dwellers as prints on simple garments. Love was absolutely in the air as models’ dynamic attitudes were contagious.
Marissa Webb did Oxford chic with tweed and plaid, but added a hint of rebellion with leather sleeves. She painted the image of a rock ‘n roll schoolgirl who might work hard, but parties harder. Button-down shirts were opened to reveal a sliver of tummy and black lace up heels meant business. The final look, a red Italian crepe tunic with a red floor length skirt, hit the final note of Webb’s good girl with the slightest hint of bad.
Young designer Judson Harmon of ODD mixes grit and sheen in his urban collection. Classic separates were redone with interesting details such as a transparent strip at the knee of pants, or shirts that were bare from the armpits down. Grey, black, and navy were the key colours as Harmon emphasised oversized sweaters and visible stitching at the hems, making his clothes wearable for any street slicker.
Todd Snyder brought Mod sensibility of the early 60’s to his menswear collection. He joined the sharply cut blazers under military garments, sweaters with graphic patterns, and leather from the motorcycle culture to bring a new kind of gentleman to New York. Think early Bowie meets The Who.
Having deftly transitioned since her days the creative director of Ports 1961, South African designer Tia Cibani showed her third collection at the Prince George Ballroom, where an imaginative tapestry of fringed Persian rugs created an unconventional runway under a chandelier’s glow and the music of music of Javier Peral. Her silky, pleated skirts and wrap-jackets with relaxed shoulders were casually paired with heirloom mohair crop sweaters, handkit in colors like cypress green and rose. Many looks were tied up with sporty metallic brogues, while wooden-heeled shoes offered subtle pops of colour.