The second day of Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week revealed a diverse range of stories, from the clockwork fantasy of ILJA, to the hip-hop glamour of Alexandre Vauthier. Schön! journeyed to the fantastical worlds of the designers who showed their collections on the second day, which included Stéphane Rolland, Bouchra Jarrar, and Julien Fournié.
ILJA’s new collection, titled “CAESURA,” was inspired by the eternalness of time. Several pieces were adorned with the copper interiors of clocks, providing a beautiful touch to sensual silhouettes. In ILJA’s structural seashell pleats, viewers were transported to the beach as they were surrounded by washed out landscape prints, similar to a watercolour effect. The Dutch designer’s garments were primarily one-pieces, both short and long, but altogether organic. While some pieces contained the strength of Japanese warrior armour, the collection spoke of a profound, foggy quietness.
French designer Stéphane Rolland harnessed the colour and feeling of the sun in his collection. Vibrant yellows and oranges dominated the runway as models floated down the runway in ethereal garments. Rolland’s long dresses flowed gorgeously, like the shimmering rays from the sun. Low, open backs were prominent, highlighting shoulder blades. As a chorus of heavenly music echoed throughout the Théâtre National de Chaillot, the final model was seen wearing a radiant golden piece that gave the illusion of wings.
Bouchra Jarrar reinvented the pantsuit by adding iridescent feathers, sequins, and crystals. She added a twin set of thin belts around tailored pants, and dramatised the lapels of jackets. This season, Parisian chic was fortified as Jarrar played with fur and leather in controlled ways. Her silhouettes were strictly straight. The Morrocan-born designer showed a collection which ranged from plaid coats or sharp blazers, to a few airy dresses that were simple, but timelessly sophisticated.
Alexandre Vauthier never fails to surprise. This season, the designer brought the swag of hip-hop street wear to the Parisian haute couture runway. The first series of white garments, consisting of long sleeved tops and booty shorts, were loaded with bling. Vauthier followed the golden colour of his accessories and brought shimmer to his garments, with structural pleats at the hips. Tops were woven with intricacy and leather crimson corsets were made to perfection. Animals came out to play in the hints of zebra and leopard patterns. At the end of Vauthier’s spectacle, dramatic ruffled dresses in mustard, navy, crimson, and black made a sexy end to a very urban show.
Julien Fournié recreated strange porcelain dolls reminiscent of Mark Ryden’s illustrations. Christened “First Shiver,” Fournié’s collection explored the “first moment” of each girl’s entry into adulthood. Filled with pastel colours such as fresh mint chewing gum, strawberry, and violet, dresses contained intricate beading and lace embroidery. Garments’ backs were low and dramatic, and torsos were elongated, like in Modigliani paintings. Hair stylist Olivier Lebrun added freshly picked flowers to the models’ braided buns, further adding innocence to this fairytale. Fournié added a touch of grey and powder to his collection, bringing a sense of storm to the overall idyllic and romantic portrait of a young woman.
Words / Sheri Chiu
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