Behind the scenes for After Work Studio’s showcase. Photo by Tino Konino.
Mode Suisse has always been a melting pot, bringing together a mix of home-grown and international talent to form a unique set of collections. This year, the event was proud to present its 16th edition.
For 2019, Mode Suisse took place in the fresh air, with models walking the runway next to Zurich’s Allgemeine Berufsschule. Keeping in line with founder Yannick Aellen’s vision, on top of a series of workshops and talks with industry figures, the catwalk shows were followed by individual showroom presentations, which gave the young designers a chance for face time with the show’s international audience. Here are some of Schön!’s favourite shows from the event.
Designer Julia Heuer, originally from Stuttgart, opened the event with a vibrant collection overflowing with colour. The womenswear designs bloomed with floral patterns and bright hues, highlighting the pleated structures Heuer has previously brought to other Mode Suisse editions. Cautiously crafted geometrics showcased the power of these colours, making for an eye-catching beginning to the evening.
Students Ania Marincek and Lora Sonney from HEAD – Geneve brought with them a comparable vibrancy. Bright colours were also the name of the game here, with each piece boasting monochromatic neons in green, orange, pink and beyond. Some went even bolder – black-and-white fur topped with a matching hat, or an oversized jacket ruffling with a spectrum of shades. Along with these pieces were some muted but equally impressive additions; dresses in light pinks and burgundy shined and staked their own places in the collection.
One of the night’s overarching themes was a rejection of tradition, something felt wholeheartedly in Jacqueline Loekito’s collection. Loekito took on gender roles — not a new topic for her, but one she has perhaps best tackled this year. Models of all genders were dressed in soft pastels, with both masculine and feminine-presenting models wearing suits, dresses, cut-off jumpers and more. Across several pieces, a message was emblazoned: “Love Unites Us.” In Jacqueline Loekito’s world, we believe it to be so.
Designed by the team of Karin Wüthrich and Matthias Fürst, After Work Studio has been a consistent favourite of Mode Suisse and this year is no different. The duo boldly set lavenders alongside fiery oranges down the runway, breaking up the collection with simple white womenswear and the occasional technical outerwear offering. Pieces in this collection were truly eclectic, making categorising the span of work a difficult task. Still, the knit pieces and textile works were highlights.
To close out the events, design collective ArchivesTM — which comprises designers Tiffanie Bellenot, Justin Person and Victor Prieux — collaborated with Swiss brand MADE VISIBLE to create a slew of hi-vis designs that lie somewhere between workwear, outerwear and streetwear. As night fell, the designs caught the event light and cast it back into the audience, drawing them in as every model walked the runway. Besides the expressiveness of the designs themselves, the symbolic message behind such closing was clear — Mode Suisse is made by trendsetters, trailblazers and guides, showing us the way forward.
For more information about Mode Suisse, visit its website.
words. Braden Bjella
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