Paris brought men’s fashion month to a close, celebrating a generation whose energy is solid, thriving and put the power behind identity. Taking cues from underground movements old and new; cementing relations between spheres of arts, music, visual culture, designers took to the entities defining difference for the opening day of Paris Fashion Week Men’s.
To kick things off, Lemaire embodied European style with a minimalist collection. The collection featured high-waist trousers, blouson shirts, and short to long jackets as Die Wilde Jagd played live music in the background. Lightweight fabrics, loose fits, and a natural colour palette showed that these laid-back looks could do both: casual workwear and polished everyday style.
Y/Project continued its navigation of wearability and versatility by playing with patterns and proportions. This focus was evident in the billowy tops, oversized jackets, and boxy trousers. The collection had a neutral, earth-toned palette with a pop of red that made the looks casual yet sophisticated.
The Walter Van Beirendonck show Owl’s Whisper had an air of mystery and quirkiness throughout. The fits and silhouettes were clean and well-tailored, but the designer’s style was most recognizable in the bright oversized raincoats, patchwork jackets, and the mix-match of fitted pieces with volume. While some felt lost by the narrative, the spring collection delivered striking colours and cartoony ensembles that stood out from the rest.
The Kooples’ presentation added to the relaxed style by staying true to their rock roots. Silkscreened patterns, track pants, varsity jackets, and overlaid accents tied back to prior collections while the oversized fits pointed towards a new direction. The collection featured wide cut shorts, long tops, ankle length trousers, and boxy outerwear.
Inspired by Art Deco Miami founder Leonard Horowitz, CMMN SWDN revived a unique style for 2018. The collection channeled Miami Vice with long, oversized suit jackets and high-waist trousers, but added linens and nylon to lighten the pieces. Colours of the likes of lilac, mint, pale turquoise, muted yellows balanced the earth tones and made the laid-back combos pop.
OAMC’s collection blended tough and light to create an artistic yet sophisticated vibe. The use of camouflage, People for Peace protest badges, and sharp shoulder cuts made the jackets and parkas were akin to military uniforms. Yet, the silk, wool, and tweed fabrics softened the collection, accomplishing designer Luke Meier’s goal.
Words / Patrick Clark & Autumn Hill
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