As a month of menswear comes to a close, Schön! looks back at the shows that presented a key moment in the calendar. As the first appointment in the menswear diary, London brought out its tribes, clans and posses for a habitually diverse set of shows. Minutely opulent designs at Craig Green or innovative silhouettes at the MAN showcase re-affirmed London’s position as a lead in the taste-making game.
Topman Design presented a renewal of 1970s inspired florals, suede suiting and stone wash denim. Translating menswear’s current favourites, designer Gordon Richardson and his team uncovered leading trends – reinventing Gucci’s silk and florals, Saint Laurent’s neo-grunge and Yeezy season distressed sweaters and tonal hoodies.
Presenting an all black collection this season, Nasir Mazhar’s intention was focus on fashion rather than sportswear. Commonly considered as a highly branded street label, Mazhar rebelled against his hallmark, justifying his overlooked skill of design. Revisiting his milliner past, headwear played a big role in his most recent collection. Branded graphics, heavy gothic boots, gender neutral vests and Mazhar’s recognisable tracksuits, with the addition of precise panelling and ruched detailing.
Rising talents are showcased each season by fashion east’s MAN.Starting the show with vintage inspirations, Grace Wales Bonner’s collection included kitted tank tops, ankle grazing white shirt and wide cut trousers. Next, Rory Parnell-Mooney, in his third season with MAN, presented a dark collection, layering longline coats, jackets and a striking “Nancy Boy” slogan tee. Thirdly, Charles Jeffery brought club kid culture to the men’s runway, showing models dressed in slashed jumpers and painted jeans with heavy make-up looks and custom accessories.
Reiventing his signature concept-driven work, Craig Green’s man is an ever-evolving entity and a highly recognisable silhouette. His previously seen ties and straps were repeated – holding together seams, white ties contrast against black leather. Prominent straps synched waistlines and upper arms, whilst gripping hoods of khaki, sand and camel utilitarian jackets.
Similarly to Green and Mazhar, this season’s focus for Astrid Andersen was her own brand DNA. Without abandoning her signature lace pieces, knits and graphic printed sweaters, Andersen introduced a new fabrication for A/W16. Created by Chanel’s supplier, Linton Tweeds brought a surprise factor in the form of hoodies, bomber jackets and jogger style trousers.
Leaving McDonalds and Barbie behind, Jeremy Scott collaborated with artists Gilbert & George for Moschino’s autumn/winter 2016 collection. With a rainbow colour palette from bold pinks, oranges, blue to tonal black and khaki, Scott translated Gilbert & George’s graphic works onto basics including parka jackets, tank dresses, puffa coats and blazers.
American football influences dominated Marjan Pejoski’s latest collection for KTZ. Giant leather stitching (usually seen on baseballs) and ‘team KTZ’ badges embellished bomber jackets, coats and caps, as football masks covered the faces of selected models as they stomped down the runway in leather trousers, parachute like jackets and Union Jack capes.