landiana’s diary | paris fashion week SS19

Marine Serre

Oh, Paris, mon amour! There is no better way to end fashion month than with Paris Fashion Week. But, let’s start at the beginning: the first show on the Parisian calendar was one I had been waiting to attend for a long time. To make the transition from Milan Fashion Week easier, Jacquemus chose the Italian Embassy as the location to present his SS19 collection. He took us all on a Mediterranean journey complete with XXL bags, coastal palettes, and sheer materials. It just had all the ingredients that could make you book a vacation ASAP. Inspired by the south of France, Simon Jacquemus creates for a confident, strong woman.

The contours of Marine Serre’s Futurewear have taken shape with uncompromised stances in design, audacious interventions, turnovers, a futuristic return to older templates and technical savoir-faire. For this collection only, around half of the styles were sourced from pre-existing products. Later the same day and without a specific theme, Afterhomework presented its collection inspired by Paris at night, describing it as “empty and full of lights”. The designer has always been inspired by the people he meets while walking through the Parisian streets or by friends that are not into fashion. For this show, he decided to use strong faces, purposely disregarding the height of the models. To finish off Tuesday right, Anrealage presented a mix of real and unreal. The theme was to show two extreme and opposed elements in one. The opposite values they explored through this collection were black and clear, technology and handwork.

Redemption

Redemption: heavy metal, red curtain, social message, and vegan leather. Those are the few keywords that perfectly describe the entire work of Bebe Moratti.

Elie Saab

On Friday, oversized jackets, boiler suits with large pockets, abstract shapes, and reshapeable hats were all spotted at Issey Miyake show. I particularly loved the prints and the flexibility of the clothes.

Now, onto Saturday. From morning until dawn is how I would describe Elie Saab’s latest collection. From extravagant gowns to sensual and romantic dresses, with flower embroideries and animal prints, this collection has in its centre of attention a powerful strong woman, a wild spirit, that somehow still remains sensual.

Chanel

As the end of PFW approached, in between shows and events, I couldn’t help but wonder… what about Chanel? I knew it will be held at Le Grand Palais like always, but what would be the main theme of the setting and the décor? Will it be the moon? Maybe the end of the world? I was wrong: by the sea!

As rain poured outside, after crossing the gates of Le Grand Palais, it felt like I made it to the seaside. When I got to see the perfect holiday getaway collection, my first thoughts were “that’s the way to make waves!” And quite literally. As models strutted barefoot on what seemed to me the longest catwalk ever, I realized this was just what I longed for to watch after a month of fashion shows. It’s almost like Karl knew it. He could feel my relief and delight. I could see it from the way he waved at us from the wooden house on the cliff. Logomania is still on point. Two bags, one on each shoulder—because we all know one is never enough— were spotted amongst layers of necklaces, blue lace and pastel accents; all worn by Karl’s favourite girls like Kaia Gerber, Adwoa Aboah, or Vittoria Ceretti. Of course, a lifeguard had to be involved in the scene. It was the perfect frame even without a margarita. After this, I felt so reenergized I could have started fashion month all over again.

Paris, even though you kept me busy, I thank you for everything you have showed me. You will forever inspire me, as did all the designers showcasing this season. I end my Parisian journey with a well-deserved éclair. After this, I hope I made you want to book a trip: to the beach or Paris… up to you!

words. Landiana

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