Haider Ackermann explored sleek modernism with a series of elegant coats and masterful layering. The Belgian designer of Colombian descent elongated feminine proportions with cashmere onesies and added details such as zippers and snakeskin for a dark interpretation on urban wear. There were variations of black, gray, and army green in a ballad of minimalistic jumpsuits with either high or plunging necklines.
A flamboyant, fructiferous fall collection, Tsumori Chisato weaved a vibrant, tropical paradise where she paraded a banana peel shaped skirt and a baboon pigmented fur coat down her Amazon runway. Chisato’s jungle-like palette and prints were pervaded with a 1940s (think Irene Dunne) sartorial splendor. Textured chimpanzees were augmented with electrifying sequins and cherry-red mink pelts decorated eclectic dresses and outerwear perhaps not suitable to wear on safari, but for a fierce night out on the town.
How many ways can one manipulate leather and fur? The possibilities are endless when it comes to Jean-Claude Jitrois who showcased interwoven leather in pink, violet, and black for his new collection. Dedicated to the warrior women ranging from Femen to the Womanity Foundation, Jitrois was inspired by the frustration women harness to permit others to change. On the runway, Jitrois’s muses were powerful in impressive hoods and leather motifs that resembled armor.
Australian designer Martin Grant returned to basics this season to reevaluate modern staples in womenswear. While he followed a common thread from his past collections, Grant updated classic silhouettes by cropping tops and adding boat necks on shirts for a sailor vibe. This collection proves very wearable in the soft wool of destroyed plaid coats and ultra-cute bustiers.
Fascinated by the mystifying fantasy of surrealistic photography, Veronique Leroy conjured a woman both seductive and intelligent, whose body is designed by blotted prints reminiscent of blurred film negatives. Leroy featured a series of transparent chemises and graphic skirts pieced together with shiny double belts. The burnt red and matte black tweed ensembles were real crowd pleasers.
RAD by Rad Hourani focused on conceptual garments such as sharp coats that encase the wearer like a shell. The new collection featured technical vests with slits on shoulders and cotton shirts with a glistening square print. Architectural in every way, Hourani’s clothes have the ability to make anyone feel solid.
Emerald moss swathed the wooden runway while thin transparent screens revealed American label Maiyet‘s organic cavalcade of tribal beauty. Diaphanous detail and glittering embellishments ornamented decadent eveningwear and silk prints portended polished luxury. Influenced by a self-portrait of Frida Kahlo, the introspective collection saluted feminine individualism. Like the artist from which Creative Director Kristy Caylor was inspired, slim jacquard coats reflected Kahlo’s lean sable brushes and bright palette; as splashes of yellow fur were painted on to an artful black canvas.
Words / Sheri Chiu and Chloe Rash