For part two of our NYFW coverage, we’re returning backstage with photographer Andee Maher to show you what’s upcoming for Spring/Summer 2020. This time, we’re focusing on East Asian designers, showcasing the latest from Chinese brand DAMOWANG and a range of Korean designers featured in the Korean-government sponsored “Concept Korea” event, to Shanghai-based streetwear label Dirty Pineapple.
DAMOWANG is a Chinese label launched in 2015 by designer Da Mo (Han Lei). For over a decade, Da Mo worked in various parts of the Chinese fashion industry; now, he’s emerging as a womenswear designer in his own right, creating pieces that he claims connect the wearer to a real, living environment. This plays a role in the label’s SS20 collection, which features wood-print textiles and earthy hues.
“Concept Korea” is an event sponsored by the Korean government with the intent of promoting Korean designers outside of the country. The event has been a part of New York Fashion Week for many years running; this year, the showcase focused on two main talents: IISE and LIE.
IISE mixes street style with Korean heritage. With a name that translates to “second generation,” the brand produces designs utilising both traditional and modern crafting techniques. Every piece is made in Korea using Korean materials, blending influences from the country’s history and beyond.
The second feature of this showcase was LIE, helmed by the brother-sister duo of Chungchung and Nana Lee. LIE aims to make affordable luxury womenswear with a multicultural twist – a task it accomplishes through the creative use of tailoring and experimentation with fabric. Pieces in this collection play with a carefully-set geometry, mixing colour and form to create looks both wearable and dynamic.
Finally, we’re setting our sights on Dirty Pineapple, the Shanghai-based streetwear label. Known for its vibrant colour and striking textiles, Dirty Pineapple’s showing at New York Fashion Week brought more of what we’ve come to expect (and love) from the brand. Greens, purples, and yellows were emblazoned across a range of silhouettes — some pieces brandishing cartoon characters and other figures. The collection was playful yet tailored and styled, making for a great end to part two of our coverage of the week.