angelus extraordinaire

Bringing a heart of French gastronomy to a quiet corner of Hyde Park, Angelus is the brasserie de luxe that has us here at Schön! enthralled. Led with warmth and wit by Thierry Tomasin, founder of the establishment and former Chairman Sommelier of Britain, Angelus is a delectable secret – and quiet, refined spot to indulge in exceptional French classics and a wine cellar the Queen would envy (should she come to know of it). Don’t let yourself be phased by the length or mountainous size of the wine list – a brilliant team of specialists are to hand to advise and guide you.

At the occasion of the brasserie’s 8^th Birthday, a special menu appropriately titled découverte brings guests a selection of specific dishes from various areas of France, taking willing adventurers on a gastronomic tour of its regions. Opening with a baked goats cheese soufflé, lusciously light in texture, and accompanied by a tantalising taste of caramalized endive, the starter begins in the Pas-de-Calais.

Heading westwards, with a baked Coquille Saint Jacques, delicately enhanced with braised leeks and shaved truffle, Brittany takes the relay. A pastry crust gives way to incredibly scallops – perfectly à point, releasing a fabulous amount of flavour. The Pyrenees are next in line, with an on point seafood course – cod, prawn, a chorizo-gratinated red mullet – all accompanied with an exciting Pastis foam. For the uninitiated, the Jaune is one of the finest exports of Southern France – with an aniseed base. Combined with the mellow flavours of white fish, it creates an unexpected, yet delightful, palette.

Left
Head Chef Pierre Needham
Right
Owner and Sommelier Thierry Tomasin

And now for the paroxysm: an outstanding dish, the plat de resistance that had us sold, the poussin, stuffed with truffle and foie gras. A careful and considered combination of textures and flavours, its composition is lyrical, poetic almost – a tad exaggerated, perhaps – but it is, quite safely, one of the best dishes Schön! has experienced this year.

Limousin concluded the tour with a caramelised poach Mouneyrac pear, a spiced beignet and black figs. An airy ginger foam on the side and a sickeningly good scoop of ice cream on the side, and the five course périple comes to a close. A carefully-curated selection of dishes, beautifully presented with acute attention to aesthetic and portions, Angelus left its mark on our tastebuds for a good time following the dinner.

Other than its blow-you-away evening courses, Angelus prides itself on being an all-day brasserie, allowing weary Hyde Park wanderers to come in for a moment of respite and palette pleasers. You’ll find the Parisian style restaurant nestled next to the Hyde Park stables. Saunter in for a moment of exquisite reverie – to be welcome to the wit and repartee of your gentlemanly host, Thierry Tomasin.

 Discover the full menu and more information on Angelus here.

Words / Patrick Clark
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