On the first day of the Paris Ready-To-Wear Spring/Summer 2015 runway shows, construction is key as luxury is woven into unique inspirations. From Corrie Nielsen’s out-of-this-world collection to Ground Zero’s graffiti laden looks, this day was ripe with originality. Schön! also brings you the very best from Christine Phung, Lea Peckre, Pascal Millet, Dévastée, and Anrealage.
Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015 Ready-to-Wear kicked off with Corrie Nielsen who played with voluminous construction and 60s flare in an ode to Judy Jetson. The American born, UK-based designer creatively toyed with exaggerated forms and extraordinary curvatures that simultaneously hit retro and futuristic notes. Standout pieces included a white roped dress and slinky skirts that illustrated the progressive female of the decade. Nielsen devoted her new collection to the women of the 1960s who paved the way for the independent women we have come to be today.
Going back to basics, Phung proposed a vision understated by laser-cut dresses and fastened jackets hemmed just under the waistline. Minimalism reigned in this collection with tones of navy, white and grey. Unexpected patterns and pops of bright red glimmered through the garments. Phung proved she remains true to her exciting and playful aesthetic.
“We were trying to create our own gang,” Philip Chu smileed to his brother Eri. “That’s why we were very inspired by the street.” These two Hong Kong designers form the artistically driven brand that is Ground Zero. Famous for their wild prints and statement pieces, Ground Zero took pop culture and splashed the runway with graffiti prints and sensational footwear. This new collection provoked a modern conversation between the downtown rebellious, the lyrics of rap, and the glimmer of sophistication that is seen throughout. The Ground Zero woman is tough: she sports patterns of barbed wire and an array of funky logos. She wears killer metallic plate sandals or cut-out heels, the results of a harmonious collaboration between Ground Zero and Staccato footwear. “We wanted to created a woman who is confident, energetic, and bold,” Philip said. At the intersection of street and chic, Ground Zero has summoned a new era of the sleekest “gangs.”
Taking inspiration from artwork by Nicolas de Stael and Jesus Raphael Soto, the aim of Lea Peckre was to transform simple silhouettes into military influenced attire that were cinched at the waist. Fitted, green bodycon dresses revealed a mesh layer that would transform into ruffles at the bottom. The balance between the softness and rigidity of the materials was a focal point of the collection as Peckre’s minimal touch on feminine shapes transcended its mere form of existence.
Pascal Millet personified the more sporty and relaxed lifestyle of Palm Beach, with a diverse array of vibrant patterns and sparkled dresses at both short and long lengths. The relaxed silhouette then evolves into a more evening contour in very strict monochromatic tones of black and white. The show concluded with tuxedo jackets dressed on top of a horizontal cut dress with a light transparent material fitting at the bottom.
There were no direct themes this season at Dévastée, just an attention on the clothing itself. The type of fabric has always been a source of inspiration for Dévastée at the get-go, but this season the playful spirit of the collection exuberated from each and every look. Knitwear dressed down with tailored pants was juxtaposed against shirtdresses and monochrome floral prints. The tailoring was very clean, but it was truly the artistic patterns that stole the show!
Anrealage was an incredible spectacle never before seen in fashion. The show started with romantically constructed outfits that slowly made their way down runway with skullcaps laced at the back. Suddenly, the whole audience was taken aback when two models in white dresses layered with a laser-cut jacket in black started walking into a circle of over exposed light. The suspense increased until they took off the jackets and the light made markings on the dresses. Shortly after, soldiers of models marched in a very specific manner around the catwalk clouded in classical dresses fastened with a buttoned jacket in white tweed. The show was unforgettable and one could only expect more in the future!
Words / Sheri Chiu & Keanoush Zargham
Photography / Ger Ger
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