Sunday of Paris Fashion Week proved to be a blend of austerity and animation. Schön! visited the rugged and conceptual worlds of Y Project and Ter et Bantine. Splashes of colours were added to the day with Andrew GN’s Japanese manga spectacle and in Risto’s refreshing prints.
Andrew GN named the eccentric Yayoi Kusama and elegant Tina Chow as his muses for “The Good Robot Collection.” The Singapore born, Paris-based designer opened his show with feminine dresses in mousseline and satin with oval metal eyelets. His classic silhouettes slowly transformed into black lace patchwork jackets, emphasized shoulders and deep green wool coats became more architectural. The eveningwear section appeared more flattering than the rest – we preferred Andrew’s colourful patchwork robot tops and baroque appliqués.
Risto combined dark undertones of “evil tree” patterns and howling wolves with the pop colours of flashy green to create his new collection. Macedonian designer Risto Bimbiloski experimented with the amalgamation of digital patterns of tree branches with painterly strokes. The result is bright and spooky, with a touch of irony. Risto mastered the art of knitwear with his bomber jackets, which featured ultra-soft crocheted yarns. Instead of being passed through multiple hands, each piece will stay with one knitter in Risto’s Macedonian factory. She works on it from beginning to end, making all the clothes in Risto’s collection true gems.
Y/Project released its first Women’s Ready-to-Wear line under the direction of Glenn Martens. The collection featured a duality of both masculine and feminine traits in oversized pants and transparent, ruched tops. In a predominately black, white, and gray collection, we saw technical parachute windbreakers with hanging ropes and sophisticated coats with minimalist pleats. Martens stated that this debut collection is for the busy woman who aims to look elegant with a touch of roughness.
Conceptual peignoirs, crumbled bodices and Mongolian lamb lined overcoats and rotund monk-like garments were seen at the Ter et Bantine show. Textured peplum skirts and pullovers with soaring necklines exuded a monumental wind of comfort and style. Designer, Manuela Arcari took inspiration from the North-East of the Himalayas and unfurled modern kimono shapes that were shaded in black with rare strokes of crème. The collection lyrically resembled a Tibetan mountain range, unveiling a landscape of easy to wear harmonious attire.
Words / Sheri Chiu and Chloe Rash
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