Korean designer Moon Young Hee’s eponymous label opened Paris Fashion Week with an array of monochrome designs that played with inventive layering and androgynous cuts. A proven tastemaker and maestro of minimalism, Hee set the bar high by designing looks for the modern-day Annie Hall. Mannish lapels, intermingled with loose trousers, were amplified with velvet tunics adorned with flowing organza and beaded embroidery. Although Hee thrives on the effortlessness of fluid forms and soft textiles, there is almost an impalpable sophistication to her craft; a complex understanding of constructing shapes in order to deconstruct and rebuild them.
It is no surprise that American, London-based designer, Corrie Nielsen was recently crowned as “McQueen in the making.” Her Paris debut unveiled romantic, ethereal creations dusted in champagne hues to manifest a woman’s altruism for love. Models drifted down the runway appearing like Elizabethan apparitions coated in high-collared necklines and mythical fabrics. An emotional collection, Nielsen juxtaposed geometric shapes with billowing silhouettes to tell a story of the human state, of teetering feminine passion and desire. Unlike her wraithlike models, the creative spirit of Corrie Nielsen is bound to live on.
Not only is Pascal Millet’s Autumn/Winter 2014 collection wearable, it is sublime in its execution and tailoring. Influenced by David Wallace’s novel Lost Hollywood, Millet’s Marabou feathered jackets and gold maxi-dresses suggest a new era of understated glamour. In his oeuvre, the French designer allegorically discovers vanished stars and transposes them onto printed peplum tops and jumpsuits.
A breeze of savoir-faire fluttered through the purposefully frayed seams of Aganovich’s A/W 2014 collection. An industrial palette of black, white, and grey, along with a tinge of muted periwinkle reined on the runway. The Serbian design team, Nana Aganovich and Brooke Taylor, crafted sleek blazers and overlay dresses stamped with herbaceous patterns to achieve a tapestry-like, urbane look. Not even the gilded Grands Salons of La Sorbonne overshadowed the multi-layered outerwear that was paired with artfully cut trousers, epitomising Parisian flair.
Words / Chloe Rash
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