As the week of shows panned out, a focus on colour, texture and, inevitably, sequins emerged; notably, the end of London Fashion Week saw Michael van der Ham, Tom Ford and Ashish presenting their glistening collections. In an ornate display of opulence, the last days were as bright as they were bold.
The collection seen in the Chapel Undercroft of Lincoln’s inn introduced an abundant edge to Palmer // Harding. With crystal embroidered silks and exceptional chain-mail crystal embellished ‘barefoot’ shoes, a regal air dominated.
Taking inspiration from artist Walton Ford, the collection at Giles was both wild and tropical, with prints of jungle-related nature dominating the runway. August gowns, with their voluminous skirts, were printed with bold animal motifs, so much so that our inner wild side was more than willing to run free. A highlight, of course, was seeing our very own Gigi Hadid walking the Giles Deacon runway; our hearts certainly made a little jump seeing the rising IMG star clad in a pared-down silk dress.
Equally bold motifs were seen at ISSA, with an equestrian theme dominating the catwalk. Crops were rife and plenty, and displayed midriffs elegantly in two-piece silhouettes. Floral appliqués were a definite highlight, adding a unashamedly feminine touch to a brilliantly refined collection.
Chiffon was rolled out by the yard at Michael van der Ham’s show, with intricately constructed gowns seen floating down the runway. Fluid silhouettes, painterly in a muted palette, were elegant and stately.
The young designers at the Fashion East presentation had our attention with conspicuous and bold designs. Helen Lawrence developed her knitwear aesthetic, with layers of latex adding textural depth to her complex looks. Louise Alsop propelled overlooked, ‘90s worthy pieces down the runway, with crop tops, slashed cotton and logo-mania prints capturing our attention? Ed Marler, on the other hand, with a vampy collection which blended clubkid inventiveness with McQueen-esque deconstructionism, was a highly acclaimed newcomer to the Fashion East empire.
Ashish developed signature themes in an explosive collection, presented with a cast of exclusively black models. Urban shapes dominated, with tinsel and sequin embellished sportswear pieces seen striding down the runway to a Zebra Katz soundtrack. A collection both energetic and energising, the infinite creative possibilities of sequins continue to marvel as Gufta reinvents his signature style season after season.
Portugal Fashion showcased the designs of Daniela Barros and Joao Melo Costa. Barros used minimal and geometric lines in loose fitting monochromatic tailoring, whilst Costa’s collection was inspired by nature and featured botanical prints and leaf like fabrics.
Mulberry have caught the mood of the season with a whimsical collection inspired by the delphiniums, cow parsley and cornflowers of an English Garden. Feminine fabrics including intricate Swiss lace and sumptuously embroidered jacquards are toughened up when combined with sporty parkas and laser cut leather.
We were lucky enough to get a sneak preview of Asprey’s luxury bags for the new season. Echoing the feminine feel so prevalent in the SS15 collections, many styles have been created in soft, nude tones, but there are also shots of brighter colours and plenty of texture in sizes to suit all sensibilities.
If pretty pastels are not your thing, look no further than Tom Ford, who went all out for unashamedly sexy ‘70s glam rock in a collection dominated by lots of black, metallics, sheer fabrics and sequins. Not your typical S/S collection, these are looks to unleash your inner vixen.