Another day of shows brought with it another exciting array of new designs, with houses pushing their signature looks and styles in unexplored directions. From the textured collection presented at Pringle of Scotland, to the seductive collection at Temperley London, the third day of London Fashion Week brought with it new design horizons.
A highly structured collection was presented at Pringle of Scotland, with a continued interest in the 3D knit, which was introduced last season. Massimo Nicosia, creative director of the house, delved into 3D printing techniques, introducing a textural game to the signature fine knit pieces. With sequins replicating cable stitching and 3D printed jacquard knit, the very structure of knitwear was redesigned. Massimo Nicosia presented a collection both sharp and modern, pushing the heritage of Pringle of Scotland in yet more exciting directions.
The duo behind palmer // harding ventured into new territories with an exciting collection which focused on the concept of a sheet of paper. Going a step further away from their signature reconfigured white-shirt, palmer // harding created tactile pieces which emulated mechanically-shredded paper. Technical jerseys and patent leather figured prominently, introducing an intriguing interplay of textiles.
Well known for its exquisite and elegant eveningwear, Temperley London seduced us with a sexier collection for AW14. A glimpse of stocking through a sheer skirt or a soft suede boot skimming a thigh raised temperatures without sacrificing subtlety. The collection was also dominated by luxurious layers, such as quilted capes worn over riding jackets and embroidered shawls cinched in by wide belts. Embroidery and print – inspired by Spanish cathedrals and Byzantine architecture – featured heavily, while shots of cobalt, ochre and rose spiced up a base palette of black, oyster grey and winter white.
The collection seen on the runway at Vivienne Westwood Red Label seemed to toy with vintage looks, taking inspiration from the pieces usually found in second-hand shops. With oversized overcoats, wide droopy shoulders and 1950s style fur coats, Vivienne Westwood presented a charmingly whimsical collection. Schön! particularly loved the two-piece tartan suits, which introduced a very glamorous edge to the retro look.
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