The second day of London Fashion Week brought yet more graphic pieces to the runway, with motifs which ranged from floral detailing at John Rocha, to Expressionist machinery at Holly Fulton. With a range of themes explored, Schön! selected some of the strongest pieces from day 2, some of which touched on wild rock looks, others which focused on textural details.
Charlie May’s minimalist aesthetic delved further into unexplored territories of details, focusing on texture, fabrics and colour. With the use, notably, of pony-hair and Mongolian furs, as well as neoprene and mesh, pieces were sculpted into bold shapes with the rigidity of the materials. This particularly urban collection breathed young energy.
Holly Fulton presented a carefully crafted collection, with minute embellishments of leaves and flowers giving the collection a wonderfully whimsical edge. German expressionist cinema was the word of the day at Holly Fulton, with bold signature prints evoking industrial machinery and technological contraptions, paying tribute to the likes of Fritz Lang.
The collection seen at the John Rocha show threw the audience into a world of dark romanticism, with designs incorporating floral and thorn-like patterns into the very structure of the garments. Dramatic organza forms and ruffle dresses cast a nineteenth-century gothic aura over the collection. This was balanced with a lighter, more delicate aesthetic, with the lace and velvet pieces.
The design trio behind the Sibling created a collection which touched on a range of styles, some of which referred to a goth-rocker look, others which hinted at a more corseted, 1950s style glamour. The common thread throughout was, of course, the thread itself: beautifully crafted knit pieces, from full gowns to particularly dainty briefs, stated, once again, that Sibling leads the way when it comes to all things woollen.
Bangkok-based couture house Busardi made its London Fashion Week debut, presenting a collection both romantic and nostalgic, both bold and refined. The gowns incorporated floral detailing into cinched waists, giving a regal touch to sylph-like silhouettes. Schön! particularly loved the embroidered detailing on sheer panels.
Words / Patrick Clark
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